With laser treatments more accessible than ever, achieving smoother, more even-toned skin is easier than ever. However, despite lasers’ ability to treat many skin concerns, these minimally invasive treatments aren’t always safe for deeper skin tones.
“Skin of color has unique characteristics that pose challenges to laser therapy,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Adeline Kikam explains. “These include increased melanin, easily altered melanocytes (associated with greater post-procedure pigment complications), and reactive fibroblasts (which promote scarring).”
While this is intimidating, it doesn’t mean skin of color can’t achieve the desired results from specific laser treatments. “Contrary to popular misconception, lasers can be used in darker skin types, albeit more selectively, given the greater risks of hyperpigmentation and scarring,” Dr. Kikam notes.
To further demystify lasers for deeper skin tones, Dr. Kikam and fellow dermatologists Dr. Karan Lal and Dr. Roberta Del Campo explain everything you need to know ahead.
Meet the Expert
- Dr. Karan Lal, DO, MS, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist.
- Dr. Roberta Del Campo, M.D., is the chief medical officer for Skin Laundry.
- Dr. Adeline Kikam, DO, MSc, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist.
Which Lasers Are Safe for Deeper Skin Tones?
Ablative lasers that remove the top layer of the skin should be avoided by those with melanated complexions. However, non-ablative lasers that penetrate below the skin can be safe for dark skin tones.
“The safest wavelengths for skin of color are those in the near-infrared range, particularly the 800–810‐nm diode and the 1064‐nm (Nd: YAG),” Dr. Kikam explains. “These lasers have longer wavelengths that bypass the topmost epidermal layer of skin, avoiding damage. They are also efficient at targeting hair while sparing the epidermis.”
How to Know If a Laser Treatment Is Right for You
Lasers can treat many skin concerns, including hair removal, fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin tone, benign growths, skin tightening, razor bumps, acne scars, and stretch marks.
No matter your concern, research is vital before proceeding with a laser treatment. Dr. Kikam recommends, “Go to a reputable establishment, preferably a dermatologist. Ask what type of laser will be used and confirm it’s appropriate for treating darker skin tones.” Don’t feel shy about inquiring about your provider’s training and experience, and be sure to talk through any potential complications and how they would be handled.
The Best Lasers for Deeper Skin Tones
Moxi Laser
“Moxi is a 1927 nm thulium laser,” Dr. Lal explains. “This laser specifically targets water instead of melanin, making it safe for all skin types. It also doesn’t penetrate as deep as other lasers, making it safer with a reduced risk of scarring.” The Moxi laser can treat hyperpigmentation caused by melasma or inflammation, smooth texture, reduce sun damage, and minimize pores.
In New York, Moxi costs an average of $950 per session. Depending on your treatment area, location, and provider’s experience level, this service will cost anywhere from $400 to $2000.
This treatment requires minimal prep, but it’s crucial to avoid prolonged sun exposure before treatment. “Sun exposure leads to temporary spillout of pigment from melanocytes,” Dr. Lal points out. This can lead to prolonged healing and the risk of hyperpigmentation.
I received a Moxi laser facial at Marmur Medical with Dr. Ellen Marmur. Since it was my first laser facial, she recommended that I start with the level 1 setting. First, they took a few photos of my skin and then applied numbing cream, letting it sit for about 35 minutes. The laser portion of the treatment only lasted 10 to 15 minutes and wasn’t nearly as painful as I anticipated. Moxie has a reputation for being very tolerable, so I was only mildly uncomfortable.
My skin felt a little rough on day two, and by day three, I had pepper-like specks all over my face that were pretty unnoticeable from afar or under makeup. By day five, the flakes were gone, and I noticed a brighter, more even-toned complexion. For best results, Dr. Lal recommends receiving two to four treatments. As with any laser aftercare, applying (and reapplying) sunscreen daily is a must. It’s also important to use gentle ingredients—avoid formulas with fragrance or active ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, and retinol.
Clear + Brilliant
Dr. Kikam explains, “Clear + Brilliant is a gentle laser designed for overall skin rejuvenation and suitable for darker skin tones.” According to the brand, the device enhances the skin by creating microscopic treatment zones in the upper layers of the skin, replacing damaged skin with healthy tissue.
The process requires 30 to 45 minutes from prep to completion. If requested, your provider can apply a topical numbing cream and remove it prior to treatment. Then, they will use the Clear + Brilliant device, gliding it across targeted areas for 15 to 20 minutes. Within two weeks post-treatment, your skin should feel softer and appear more radiant. To maintain results, four to six treatments are recommended.
After each treatment, expect a day or two of redness followed by less than a week of rough texture. Dr. Kikam recommends using “gentle cleansers, hydrating serums, and broad-spectrum sunscreen” while avoiding extended sun exposure and exfoliating products for at least a week.
Clear + Brilliant is marketed as a quick, effective, and affordable laser treatment. It can cost anywhere from $200 to $800, but our research shows it averages around $450 and gets closer to $600 in metropolitan areas.
Nd:YAG Laser
The Nd: YAG laser, which stands for Neodymium-Doped Yttrium-Aluminum-Garnet, can be used for laser hair removal among those with deeper skin. It can also achieve certain skincare benefits and is incorporated into many facials, including those at Skin Laundry.
“Our treatment delivers energy below the skin’s surface to precisely and painlessly correct and prevent breakouts, reduce redness, calm rosacea, break up hyperpigmentation, and stimulate collagen production for clearer, firmer, and healthier skin,” Dr. Del Campo says.
Sessions for laser hair removal can cost between $250 and $1,000. Skin Laundry and similar skincare facilities may charge between $75 and $275 for laser facials. With hair removal, receiving multiple sessions four to six weeks apart is recommended for best results. Dr. Del Campo advises booking multiple laser facial appointments to maintain your results. “Regular treatments ensure the best possible outcome,” he says.
It is normal for your skin to feel inflamed in the days following your procedure. To help soothe your skin, avoid direct sun exposure, wear sunscreen, and apply a cooling gel. Experts also recommend avoiding working out for at least 24 hours after treatment to prevent irritation caused by chafing and sweating.
NeoClear Laser
NeoClear is a two-step laser treatment that targets acne. “The Neoclear laser, a type of Nd- laser, is effective for treating acne in darker skin tones due to its longer 1064 nm wavelength,” Dr. Kikam says. “It penetrates deeply without damaging the melanin-rich epidermis.”
The process involves treating the entire affected area with laser light to combat acne-causing bacteria while also minimizing pores and texture. Then, laser energy is applied directly to each visible breakout to reduce inflammation. Depending on the size of the affected area, the procedure can be completed in 10 to 30 minutes. The treatment is designed to be gentle, so you may only feel a slight warm sensation on your skin.
There is no downtime associated with NeoClear, but aftercare is still essential. Dr. Kikam recommends wearing sunscreen, avoiding direct sunlight, and avoiding harsh scrubs and exfoliating products.
Each NeoClear session is tailored to your skin, so costs may vary. A treatment generally costs between $150 and $350, and it is recommended to receive four to six sessions to fully clear and control breakouts.
Gentle Max Pro Laser
Candela creates medical aesthetic laser equipment, and its Gentle Max Pro Laser is safe for deeper skin tones. Dr. Kikam says, “This laser combines the Alexandrite laser and the Nd: YAG lasers, making it versatile for various skin tones and concerns, including hair removal and pigmentation issues.” Some other uses include treating wrinkles, diffuse redness, spider and leg veins, vascular lesions, pseudofolliculitis barbae, and nail fungus.
The Gentle Max Pro Laser delivers short pulses of light energy to the treatment area, allowing it to target the hair follicle, pigment, or lesion. The device’s Dynamic Cooling Device (DCD) sprays the treatment area before each pulse with a liquid cryogen coolant to make the procedure more comfortable.
One of the device’s key selling points is that it can tackle larger surface areas faster than most lasers for quick and efficient sessions. However, the total duration will depend on the size of the treatment area. Depending on your treatment area, the price also ranges from $150 to $650. Most individuals will require six to ten sessions spaced out every six weeks.
Like other laser treatments, your skin may appear red or mildly swollen afterward. Dr. Kikam says, “Avoid sun exposure and use broad-spectrum sunscreen. You’ll also want to use soothing creams like aloe vera and follow your provider’s instructions on skincare routines. Applying ice packs may help reduce any immediate post-treatment swelling.”
Palomar Lux 1540-Nanometer Fractional Laser
The Palomar Lux 1540 is a fractional laser that reduces acne and surgical scarring, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. It has also been approved to minimize stretch marks. “It [emits] light columns to stimulate collagen production, helping to diffuse stretch marks,” Dr. Kikam explains. “It can be used cautiously on darker skin with slower, less traumatic speeds.”
Topical anesthesia is applied to the skin to make the procedure more comfortable, as the device’s heat pulses may feel hot. Once the treatment is completed (usually within 30 minutes), your provider will ice your skin to help reduce redness and swelling. Post-treatment, your skin may feel like it’s been sunburnt, with peeling and flaking occurring. You can treat this with daily ice, moisturizer, and sunscreen application. Dr. Kikam says moisture is critical to supporting the healing process.
This laser treatment costs between $700 and $1000 per session, and for the maximum benefits, you’ll likely need three to six treatments (each one a month apart).
PicoSure Laser
PicoSure is the world’s first picosecond aesthetic laser. Dr. Kikam recommends it for those wanting smoother, firmer skin or those looking to fade unwanted marks. It can also remove tattoos. Dr. Kikam states, “PicoSure is versatile for various skin tones, stimulating collagen growth. It can treat sun spots and scars on all skin tones. It has faster pulses and lower heat generation, making it safer for darker skin.”
Generally, your pigmentation will be significantly reduced or cleared within two to three sessions. With each session, there is no downtime associated with them. You may experience erythema—abnormal redness or inflammation—but this symptom should resolve within hours.
In the week following your appointment, avoid activities that can irritate your skin, like waxing, swimming, saunas, or sunbathing. You should also stick to a gentle skincare routine (think: simple cleanser, lightweight moisturizer, and sunscreen)—foregoing exfoliants, acid-infused products, or formulas high in fragrance.
Patients can typically expect to spend $400 to $600 for a PicoSure session, though high-end skin care practices may charge higher.
Nano-Fractional Radio Frequency Energy
Not quite ready to go full throttle with a laser? Nano-Fractional Radio Frequency Energy is a close second. It uses electricity (instead of light) to heat the deepest layers of the skin.
At Skin Laundry, this method is incorporated into their Resurfacing Facial ($275 for members and $330 for non-members). “This laser-esque treatment uses fractional technology to improve skin texture, stimulate the production of collagen, increase skin cell turnover, and create microchannels enabling greater absorption of products, like serums,” Dr. Del Campo says. The treatment lasts just 15 minutes, and the most common side effect is mild redness for up to 72 hours.
After receiving a facial with Nano-Fractional Radio Frequency Energy, it is recommended to apply hyaluronic acid serum and use a gentle cleanser for 72 hours. You should also avoid heat exposure (like steamy showers or saunas) for 72 hours and direct sun exposure for one week. For optimal results, refrain from applying sunscreen or makeup for three days after treatment. During this time, you’ll also want to steer clear of active ingredients like vitamin C, AHAs, retinoids, and physical exfoliants.
The Final Takeway
Laser treatments for deeper skin have come a long way, but you’ll still want to vet your provider and the laser they are using before your appointment. Non-ablative lasers are the safer option for melanin-rich skin, as these lasers bypass the upper layer of the skin to cause a therapeutic response at the deeper level.
Regardless of which laser treatment you choose, remember proper aftercare practices are important to ensure the best results. Dr. Kikam says, “Avoid direct sun exposure and use broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. [You should also] stay away from harsh skincare products, including retinoids, acids, and exfoliants, for a specified period post-treatment.”
She also encourages keeping in contact with your provider. “Attend any scheduled follow-up appointments to monitor the skin’s response and address any concerns or complications,” she notes.