Hits and Misses: Menswear Milan Fashion Week Spring 2025

That’s a warp on Menswear Milan Fashion Week Spring 2025, with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s schedule this season having packed an almighty punch and leaving a lasting impression.

All eyes were on Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino who opened up the Milanese fashion affair, with the unveiling of his highly-anticipated menswear collection as the brand’s newly-installed creative director. The Argentinian designer ventured into the Moschino archives to seek inspo, ultimately reinventing some signature Moschino staples and met with a resounding standing ovation from our forum members. Later in the day, Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2 blended elements of leather harnesses, boxing attire with a sense of fun and playfulness.

For MSGM’s 15th anniversary, Massimo Giorgetti channeled the essence of youthful exuberance via a vivid color palette. Aptly titled “Italian Beauty”, the ultimate Italian design duo that are Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana paid homage to idyllic Italian summers during the 1950s (an in particular the iconic Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni). Woven raffia jackets, shirts and tunics in summer shades of tan, echoed in the footwear and bags while there was touches of sleek blacks and browns splashed throughout. Clean lines and minimalism were the order of the day at Silvia Venturini Fendi’s Fendi while Neil Barrett updated his customer’s wardrobe with a lineup of chic shades of grays balanced by mustard yellows and powdery pinks.

The fashion pack descended upon the Fondazione Prada to bare witness to Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ latest showcase, with guests ushered into a vast showcase complete with a little white house and a winding runway. The Prada co-creative directors blurred the lines between reality and illusion with flaunted a masterful use of trompe l’oeil details. Martine Rose set up shop this season at the Porta Romana art center, decamping to Milan for Spring 2025 (after opting to show previously in Paris and during Pitti Uomo). It was an explosion of creativity at JW Anderson, where the Irish designer’s knack for the unexpected was on full roaring display.

To round out the festivities on day four, the undisputed king of Italian fashion that is Giorgio Armani ramped up the elegance and sophistication. swaying palm leaves set the scene for a masterclass in tailored dressing, embracing the idea of both style and comfort. For his sophomore menswear outing as Gucci creative Sabato De Sarno, William Finnegan’s autobiography Barbarian Days was the ultimate starting point for the Italian designer, who was inspired by the art of surfing. Dolphin prints and short shorts galore were paraded by De Sarno’s cast of models through the Triennale Milano, a sprawling design and art museum situated in the largest park in Milan.

Needless to say, the Spring 2025 season of Menswear MilanFashion Week lived up to the hype. Scroll further for all the hits and misses of the season, all in accordance with theFashionSpot’s loyal army of unfiltered fashion critics:

HIT | Moschino

“It’s definitely going in a right direction. On an encouraging note, the whimsy is strong and charming, with that combination of Magritte and Duchamp surrealism and even a sense of Miyazaki naive wonderment. At his strongest, I’d even say he’s doing it better than Franco: with the best being the deconstructed women’s suiting.” [Phuel]

“Its a lot of wild ideas and things going on which also happens to be the reason we love Moschino.” [Urban Stylin]

“I see a lot of potential and I’m definitely intrigued for more.” [thiago]

See all the looks from the Moschino Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Dsquared2

“I love it! Very fun.” [VogueDisciple93]

“I’m sorry but I love me some Dsquared2 and I love this. They’ve remained true to their aesthetic and I don’t mind that they are leaning even more into that twink, muscle queen styling for the shows. It’s fun. Their clothes are fun and very well made. Dean and Dan Caten seem to be having fun again.” [reese06]

“I actually kinda like this too. Something about it feels chill. More focus on lifestyle proposal instead of merch and brand status.” [sussiemcswanny]

See all the looks from the Dsquared2 Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Neil Barrett

“More basic than A, B, C…” [jeanclaude]

“I’m getting a 2010’s, Italo Zuchelli at Calvin Klein collection vibe from the styling but the fit is sloppy and that makes this collection unremarkable and seem rushed. It’s too oversized. Changing the styling to men who are athletic and take out this boy casting or whatever this is he has going on and it would help.” [reese06]

See all the looks from the Neil Barrett Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Dolce & Gabbana

“They are so back! Everything looks refreshing.” [Kanzai]

“Love. Seldom to see summer shorts this elegant. I think of Jean Marais.” [alwaysademo]

“This is what I expect Fendi to be. Gorgeous! Having Karl Templer and Fabien Baron put them back right on track. Dolce & Gabbana keep winning after a few seasons.” [GivenchyAddict]

See all the looks from the Dolce & Gabbana Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Fendi

“Fendi is usually on point but this is oh so tired. It looks like bad Tommy Hilfiger.” [Mutterlein]

“I think Silvia Venturini Fendi needs to be co-designer for menswear and womenswear. Don’t think she knows who is her man. But at the same time, who is that man? Who buys it? Her menswear is very inconsistent from season to season.” [Lola701]

“It’s such so banal. It could be Massimo Dutti or some generic up and coming designer at London Fashion Week. The fact that she insists on designing the menswear is beyond my understanding. Fendi Menswear could be one of the leaders in the field given their rich history and archive (and not to mention LVMH resources), but instead we have this?” [Frederic01]

See all the looks from the Fendi Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | JW Anderson

“The menswear collection without men, without menswear, without a single cell of testosterone.” [Alquimista]

“Hate the way he designs, Hate everything he does.” [gallianostan]

“As usual with him. Some really good commercial pieces and then, thrown here and there, some experimentation that never make sense. I think the problem with his experimenting is precisely that they don’t make sense. What’s the reference? What’s the link? How the coated jeans and cardigans ended up being in the same collection as the car wash fringes?” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the JW Anderson Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Prada

“I hate what became of Prada.” [FiLReD]

“I loathe Raf’s use of colors with all my heart. Disgusting. Only thing I appreciated was that there were no logos, and Miuccia’s look.” [Carla55]

“This collection lost me, first look was super Prada 1990/2000 and some of the silhouettes/pieces were desirable and stylish (crumpled suits, some knitwear etc.) but then you got this parade of Raf’s go-to nonsense: leather hoodies, plastic jumpsuits, this ridiculous trompe loeil belts etc. Shame, another chance for a decent collection wasted.” [Olaffo]

See all the looks from the Prada Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Martine Rose

“A parade of sh*t.” [gallianostan]

“What is with those noses? They are extremely disgusting and disturbing, even for trying to gain attention on social media.” [TimBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

“I wonder what the vision for her brand is? Whom exactly is this for and what’s the aesthetic she’s creating, chasing or conforming to? Most all over the place collection that I’ve ever seen.” [Constructionist]

See all the looks from the Martine Rose Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Dunhill

“The socks… my eyes!” [jeanclaude]

“I get the reference and where it is coming from, but my Lord this is so stupid. And why such thick socks for such a snug loafer? Heinous. Absolutely heinous I say.” [Cocteau Stone]

“The styling with the hats, canes and socks really betrayed what could’ve been a very chic collection.” [LadyJunon]

See all the looks from the Dunhill Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Giorgio Armani

“My fave collection from Milan! Flawless, from start to finish. Absolutely in love with the vast majority of looks here, and that muted color palette is heavenly – those shades of beige and grey mid-way through the collection are sublime. As per usual, Giorgio Armani proves himself to be in a league of his own. Massively into this…” [vogue28]

“This is very, very good. When I think of a luxury brand doing wearable summer staples, this is it. Not stodgy at all, languid looks, but coherent, sophisticated and polished.” [visvim2001]

“A perfect, casual and chic collection. Armani never fails.” [WAVES]

See all the looks from the Giorgio Armani Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Gucci

“Oh well, I think Sabato De Sarno’s time will be up soon. No conviction, these models don’t look confident. No characteristics, no personality. Just clothes that fill the void gives no meaning whatsoever.” [TaylorBinque]

“The clothes and styling is just so feminine and also so dorky. And as with everything from Sabotage De Sarno so far, it just looks so department store/mid-market.” [lookatme]

“This is such a laugh! I can’t point out a single idea of Sabato De Sarno for Gucci. All we see is just a remix of Prada, Valentino, Dior etc. There is no vision, there is no soul.” [Olaffo]

See all the looks from the Gucci Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Tod’s

“All these top tier houses should take notes. That ostrich bag in the fourth look shall be mine!” [tourbillions]

“It’s good that they did not make suits. I don’t think men go to Tod’s for suits. It’s very coherent to the brand. The bags and shoes are the stars and the clothes, a good supporting act.” [Lola701]

“A very solid, cohesive and desirable collection. So many pieces I would very happily wear here, absolutely love that blue knitted jumper and cardigan combo. There is so much gorgeous knitwear throughout this collection.” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Tod’s Menswear Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Zegna

“Beautiful clothing, beautiful casting, the models carrying the two bags felt a bit forced. The prints are what Gucci should have aimed for (but failed).” [Yassous]

“Very sleek and luxurious as we expect from Italian menswear. Loved the presentation and location too though the music was boring it sounded like royalty free music. I miss the days when designers made an effort with their shows.” [Urban Stylin]

See all the looks from the Zegna Menswear Spring 2025 collection.