“California Highlights” Are the Effortless Way to go Lighter This Summer

My apologies to Brian Wilson, but as a Minnesotan with slavic ancestry, I am perhaps the furthest thing from what one might call a “California girl.” I have never been on a surfboard, wearing a bikini somehow feels like wearing a costume and, most importantly, my dark hair doesn’t undergo any magical natural transformation in the sun.

But…that’s what a great colorist is for. (The bikini and wave catching are my own issues to tackle.)

When hairstylist Travis Ogletree began posting his “California Highlights”—a style that perfectly captures the laid back, sun-soaked energy of the golden coast—online, comments poured in from people with all sorts of hair colors asking if the process would be possible on their locks.

“Can you do California highlights on black hair?” asked a commenter back in April. “Totally can, I’d recommend more of a toned down brunette/dark blonde so it feels more naturally occurring,” he responded. “What’s the maintenance on this?” asked another. “Could just let it ride for a year,” he answered. Dreamy. And yet, somehow, attainable.

Ahead, Ogletree breaks down the look that’s taking over our Instagram feeds this summer, and explains how you can get it yourself.

What Are California Highlights?

When you think “California Highlights,” whatever comes to mind for you is likely the exact vision that this look encapsulates. That adjective carries some (measured by the pound at Erewhon) weight.

“The longer our hair is exposed to the sun, surf, and elements—the lighter it gets. I use this logic when creating a naturally occurring highlight,” Ogletree tells Byrdie. “I would say that most people have probably seen California Highlights, they just didn’t realize it. Think sun soaked, golden, dimensional, naturally occurring. When I think of California highlights, I think of the naturally lighter shades of blonde and dimensional brunettes that occur when we are children from playing outdoors. It’s that, ‘I just got back from vacation,’ sun-kissed, and bronzed type of look.”

The Inspiration

Instead of looking to a certain person (Bardot bangs) or piece of produce (blueberry nails), the inspiration for California Highlights encompasses a larger—this is the best word for it—vibe.

“California’s a lifestyle. I think the highlight philosophy I’ve developed evokes that unbothered coolness, chill, effortless energy we all aspire to have here,” shares the artist.

And if you’re over the maintenance that some color placement requires, this is the look for you.

“It’s a really attractive idea for people to only need to come in once or twice a year, and still feel like themselves after getting a color service,” he adds. “The color grows out in a way that doesn’t feel harsh, so touch ups are up to the clients discretion.”

How to Get the Look

First things first: what are you hoping to gain from your salon excursion? (This is an important question to ask no matter what you’re in for.) After you’ve figured that out, dig out your baby photos—you’ll need them soon enough.

“To start, I’d ask yourself if you’d want to be considered a brunette or a blonde leaving the hair appointment,” explains the Treehouse Studio salon owner, who advises you to have photo references that show exactly what you’re looking for. Besides your Pinterest board, look to your baby book. “I would bring in photos of yourself as a child for the tones of color you’d best be suited for,” he adds.

You also need to pay attention to what specifically you like about the photo reference, because your stylist could be seeing other details you’re not seeing: “For example, how high up the highlights go, if there is brightness around the face, the haircut in the photo vs. your own. Highlights look very different if they’re styled smoothed out vs. curled, too.”

When you make it to the salon, ask for “off root dimension that has a concentration of brightness throughout the ends of your hair.”

“If you lean lighter naturally or prefer a brighter look, you can ask for a bit of brightness around the face frame as well,” Ogletree says. “It’s a fine balance of using whatever natural dimension you have in your hair and enhancing that with lightness concentrated throughout the ends.”

And if you need help finding a stylist? Head online, where plenty of people from all over America have tracked down Ogletree. “Just remember that a good consultation is the key to getting what you want from your hair appointment,” explains the artist. “Don’t be afraid to ask questions and do your research before booking with a stylist! There is a stylist of every skill level and price range for everyone. If you’re unsure of how to find someone, search hashtags on TikTok and IG to find someone in your area.”