Hard Gel vs. Builder Gel: All Your Questions, Answered

As someone who loves long nails with extravagant designs that last me a month, nail health is extremely important. And with that comes choosing the right type of polish—in my case gel—to help lengthen, strengthen, and slay the day away. Whether or not you frequent the nail salon, it’s safe to say the options for manicures keep expanding—which is exciting, but perhaps a little confusing too. Typically, your nail tech will be able to recommend the best type of manicure and nail treatment for your mani goals, but it never hurts to go in with a little background knowledge.

So, we tapped nail experts Mo Quin and Julie Kandalec to give us the lowdown on two popular manicure styles: hard gel and builder gel. Ahead, they break down the ins and outs of each, including how to choose the one that’ll meet your needs.

What Is Hard Gel?

“Hard gel is an oligomer—a non-porous nail product, usually in a pot, that is cured under an LED lamp to create a strong, durable base layer that can be extended,” says Kandalec. It’s acetone-resistant, meaning it can’t be removed with a classic polish remover. “This ensures a long-lasting, sturdy nail enhancement that [must be] filed off by a nail professional as it can’t be soaked off,” she says. “The hard gel helps provide a resilient foundation, ideal for those seeking extra nail strength and length, and it can be topped with colored gel polish and nail art.”

What Is Builder Gel?

Similarly, “builder gel is a kind of UV gel polish that can be used to create length and strength on top of your natural nails” shares Qin. Kandalec says it is also an oligomer and can be soft, semi-hard, or hard. “It is applied directly to the natural nail or over a nail form or plastic nail tip and then cured under an LED lamp to form a durable enhancement,” she explains. “Builder gels provide a flexible, supportive structure for nails, that builds up the apex (the center of the nail) to offer a stronger nail and more aesthetically pleasing shape.” It’s usually topped with gel polish, but regular lacquer works, too—and, according to Kandelec, lasts “significantly longer” than it does on natural nails.

How Do They Differ?

While hard gel and builder gel have many similarities, there are some key differences. Kandalec breaks them down:

Hard Gel

• Has a thicker viscosity than builder gel. 
• Usually only comes in a pot and is applied with a separate brush.
• It can be a bit self-leveling, but still needs some light filing to finish. 
• Usually only available in clear, nude, or pink shades (sometimes with shimmer or opalescent finishes).
• Used to add length.
• Must be filed off for removal—it will not soak off. “While this may sound potentially damaging, licensed nail professionals are skilled in this process and know exactly when to stop filing based on how the nail looks, feels, and sounds as it’s being filed off,” she says.
• Lasts until it grows out (around three weeks) but sometimes even longer, depending on the client’s nail growth and care.

Builder Gel

• Usually thinner viscosity than hard gel.
• Comes in a pot or bottle.
• More self-leveling and needs little to no filing to finish. 
• Available in nude, pink, clear, and white shades, and some colors (although less common).
• Can be used to add length, depending on the product. If the gel is soft, you can add little length (if any at all); if the gel is semi-hard, you can add a very short free edge to the nail; and if the gel is hard, you can add length as desired.
• Can be soaked off with acetone, making the removal process easier and more “DIY-able” than hard gel.

Note: A client asking for a structured or “Russian” manicure will likely get builder gel.

How Are They Similar?

Simply put, both are gels that need curing with a light lamp and can be used to structure and add length to nails, Qin explains.

When to Use Each

Now that you understand the ins and outs of builder and hard gels, you may wonder which is right for you. There are little quirks and characteristics to each, and the experts note that personal preference makes a difference when choosing a gel for their clients.

“I like to use builder gel for extending nail length or [as an] overlay for natural nails, and hard gel as a topcoat to make natural nails more durable,” says Qin. On the other hand, Kandalec prefers hard gel for clients looking for length and strength. “Additionally, hard gel provides an excellent base for applying colored gel polish, allowing for a combination of hard gel and soft gel layer over it.”

Conversely, “builder gel is more flexible than hard gel, making it a good option for clients who prefer a more natural feel on their nails,” Kandalec continues. “It’s perfect for a structured manicure if someone wants to grow out their natural nails underneath.”

Gel vs. Acrylic

If you’re like me, your first introduction to nail extensions was acrylic (and maybe it’s still your tried and true). Kandalec breaks down the differences between gel and acrylic, and why you might choose one over the other:

• Gel is more flexible than acrylic, making gel nails less prone to lifting.
• Gel is lighter than acrylic and thus ideal for clients who want a more natural (flexible) feel to their nails.
• Gel cures under an LED/UV lamp.
• Acrylic involves a strong odor, whereas gel has little to no odor.
• Gel is easier to file as it is softer.