Staying on top of all the skincare lingo can be tricky—and “comedogenic” and “non-comedogenic” might just be two of the most popular yet confusing words. You’ve likely seen the terms on the packaging of many skincare products, but what do they mean?
We’re here to help fill you in with intel shared by leading board-certified dermatologists. Keep reading for their helpful insights on comedogenic vs. non-comedogenic ingredients, including what they are, how they affect your skin, and who should use them.
Meet the Expert
- Vivian Chin, MD, MPH, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Koru Wellness & Aesthetics.
- Melanie Palm, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Art of Skin MD in Solana Beach, California.
What Does Comedogenic Mean?
If you see the term “comedogenic” on a product label, this means the product can cause comedones. “Comedones are pores or hair follicles that generally have a buildup of bacteria, oil, and dead skin cells and can be a contributing factor to acne,” according to Dr. Chin.
Blackheads and whiteheads aren’t the only potential downsides to comedogenic products. “These substances can also potentially weaken the skin barrier in some skin types, resulting in inflammation and the worsening of existing skin conditions,” Dr. Palm adds.
It’s important to note that many comedogenic skincare products won’t feature the word “comedogenic” on the label because that tells people certain ingredients might clog their pores and lead to acne, and most brands don’t want to advertise that.
According to Dr. Palm, certain comedogenic ingredients may benefit people with dehydrated skin by offering a higher moisture level. However, comedogenic products are not the best option for people with acne-prone skin.
What Does Non-Comedogenic Mean?
Many products are labeled “non-comedogenic.” According to Dr. Palm, “This tells consumers that every ingredient in a skincare product is non-comedogenic, meaning they’re less likely to clog pores. Non-comedogenic ingredients in skincare products are designed to avoid blocking pores and include most soaps or detergents, hyaluronic acid, peptides, antioxidants, and other water-based ingredients.”
She explains that while non-comedogenic products are typically better, it’s still best to exercise caution when introducing new products into your routine. “It’s important to note that even if a product contains non-comedogenic ingredients, it can still cause acne or inflammation depending on the skin type or existing skin conditions,” Palm adds.
What Are Comedogenic Ingredients?
Many different skincare ingredients may contribute to clogged pores. Chin tells us that comedogenic skincare ingredients tend to include more oil-based chemicals or components. According to Palm, some of the most common comedogenic ingredients include beeswax, coconut oil, cocoa butter, palm oil, petroleum, algae extracts labeled as alginate, seaweed polysaccharide acids, and dimethicone, a silicone-based polymer often used in sunscreen.
When purchasing skincare products, remember that not all comedogenic ingredients are the same, and some might be more likely to contribute to clogged pores than others. “The comedogenicity of these ingredients can vary significantly depending on their formulation and refinement,” Palm says. “Consult with your dermatologist to determine the best regimen for your skincare needs.”
Who Should Avoid Comedogenic Ingredients?
“People with acne or prone to clogged pores should avoid comedogenic skincare ingredients,” Chin says, adding that they may not be a good option for people with sensitive or oily skin.
“Those with combination skin should also tread carefully with comedogenic ingredients because they have varying pore sizes in oily and dry areas,” Palm says. “Larger pores in the oily areas are more prone to clogging, making comedogenic ingredients more likely to cause breakouts in those regions.”
What Are Non-Comedogenic Ingredients?
If you have acne-prone skin, Palm suggests looking for products with non-comedogenic ingredients like beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), bakuchiol, and adapalene. If you have dry skin, Chin suggests looking for a moisturizer or serum with a high oil-to-water ratio.
“People with oily skin and acne should generally choose products with a beta-hydroxy acid, which can decrease excess oil or ingredients like benzoyl peroxide,” Chin adds. “Benzoyl peroxide can be a little drying, so if you’re only moderately oily, you can start with more gentle formulations.”
The Final Takeaway
Comedogenic skincare ingredients may cause comedones, clogged pores or hair follicles that can contribute to acne. Non-comedogenic ingredients, on the other hand, are less likely to contribute to clogged pores, though they still can in some scenarios. “By avoiding comedogenic products, people with acne can help decrease the likelihood of an acne breakout,” Chin says.
If you have any questions or concerns about whether the ingredients you’re using in your skincare routine are comedogenic or non-comedogenic, it’s a good idea to speak with a board-certified dermatologist.