Hits and Misses: New York Fashion Week Spring 2025

Thanks to the fashion frenzy that is New York Fashion Week, America’s most populous city has been an absolute hub of activity over recent days (perhaps more so than ever before). Getting the New York Fashion Week Spring 2025 season off to an almighty start was design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, with the design duo opting to show off schedule. The following day, the titan of American fashion that is Ralph Lauren also opted to forgo the CFDA’s New York Fashion Week schedule, welcoming guests onto a 19-acre equestrian estate in Bridgehampton for a collection celebrating all-things Americana.

Report: New York Fashion Week Spring 2025

As part of the CFDA’s official New York Fashion Week calendar, Piotrek Panszczyk of the buzzy brand Area kick-started day one, and dug into the archives to celebrate a decade in the business. Brandon Maxwell’s showcase exuded easy elegance. Hilary Taymour at Collina Strada chose to host this season’s show at golden hour within a small private park in Manhattan, sending the lightest of dresses and a bevy of ruffles down a grass runway.

Prabal Gurung staged his spring show under the archway on Centre St in downtown Manhattan, with a fleet of models taking to the cobbles as flowy, fringey, and form-fitting gowns blew in the wind. To a soundtrack of Guns N’ Roses and Wilco, designer Catherine Holstein of Khaite unveiled a collection in a palette of black, white, red, and pale pink. To round out a spectacular Saturday, Alaïa‘s Pieter Mulier invited guests inside the Guggenheim Museum, having ditched Paris for New York this season. Come Sunday, Ulla Johnson woke up the fashion pack with a collection of vivid pattern and bold color. Ib Kamara brought his latest Off-White offering to New York, for a blowout show under the Brooklyn Bridge to display his elevated interpretation of athletic wear.

Monday was kick-started by Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera, who found inspiration in the Herrera fragrance packing from the 1980s. Gordon unveiled an elegant collection characterized by bold polka-dot prints, bright tones, and floral motifs. Make no mistake Coach’s Stuart Vevers hearts New York. The British designer’s cast of models took to The High Line overlooking the Hudson River, sporting playful oversized clutches, leather blazers, and easy-breezy boxers shorts. Tory Burch served up plenty of nostalgia: as the designer revived her famous Reva ballet flats, the shoe that shot her brand to fame in the mid-2000s. Michael Kors hosted his spring show at The Shed in Hudson Yards, for collection tailor-made for both the boardroom and the beach – from pleated midi skirts and oversized suit jackets, to bandeau tops and fringed leather bags.

Here’s the Hits & Misses of New York Fashion Week Spring 2025:

MISS | Coach

“I don’t know why Stuart Vevers was running and smiling. This collection was a national embarrassment.” [disco54]

“Not sure why they needed these clothes. Maybe Coach wanted to show their Gen Z clients how Coach bags look with their everyday clothes, that they wear to Walmart and to campus lectures.” [Urban Stylin]

“Absolutely hideous collection, with not one single redeeming quality. A visual eyesore, and every garment looks… thrifted (in the worst way possible). The inclusion is Ella Emhoff just adds insult to injury…” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Coach Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Ralph Lauren

“RL is one of the last living icons of the industry and it’s a privilege to watch him produce runway collections at this point in his career. He has built an empire that practically invented the American aspirational dress code. One day Americans will eulogize him the way that the French do Yves and Christian Dior. The collection was wonderful in the context of what RL is. I love it.” [signifier]

“This kind of collection makes me happy – effortless and unapologetic glamour.” [thiago]

“Perfection, absolutely perfection, and I’m doubtful anything will come remotely close as we head into the official NYFW calendar. A standing ovation for Ralph, from me!” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Ralph Lauren Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Ulla Johnson

“Always enjoy Ulla Johnson’s collections during NYFW, and this is no exception. Johnson’s use of print is always enjoyable, and that pink and green print is divine. Those colors!” [vogue28]

“Always enjoy Johnson’s collections and this is no exception. I like the pop of color prints, reminds me of NY graffiti back in the day. I also like the safari-esque pieces and the dresses with the metallic-like embroidery.” [Urban Stylin]

See all the looks from the Ulla Johnson Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Michael Kors Collection

“You know fashion is f*cked when designers are pulling inspiration from Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior.” [LadyJunon]

“This has the excitement and character of a toilet flush. It looks so cheaply made. This CANNOT possibly that much better than Zara.” [GoldenPetals]

“That’s what you get when you mix the worst of Maria Grazia with the worst of Prada and sprinkle it with some Matthieu Blazy leather experimentation, to pretend you know what you are doing. Michael Kors clearly does NOT. The worst crime is the abysmal tailoring.” [yslforever]

See all the looks from the Michael Kors Collection Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Sergio Hudson

“For the first time ever Sergio Hudson has managed to make a modern-looking collection.” [Lola701]

“I always enjoy his shows. Beautiful clothes that are made for a woman that wants to look good, without any tricks or theatrics. You can tell that Hudson grew up around women that dressed well.” [Urban Stylin]

“Always enjoyed Sergio Hudson and this collection is no exception. Massively here for how cohesive and streamlined the show as a whole is, lovely color palette and silhouettes. Every garment looks wearable for his client. Seeing absolutely nothing offensive. A thumbs up from me!” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Sergio Hudson Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Luar

“Generally speaking… ugly.” [Not Plain Jane]

“Raul Lopez’s work is so cheap. Cheap taste and cheap execution.” [lookatme]

“Rick Owens and Demna Gvasalia on a tight budget.” [jeanclaude]

See all the looks from the Luar Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Grace Ling

“Very graduate fashion week looking!” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

“Just why? What’s the point of this? It doesn’t make you angry, interested or disgusted. It’s not even funny. You look at this, feel nothing and forget after few seconds. Waste of money and time.” [avonlea002]

“Grace wishes she was Casey Cadwallader for Mugler…” [jeanclaude]

See all the looks from the Grace Ling Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Khaite

“One of the two best shows in New York. Sophisticated, snobbish and chic, I love it.” [fashionlov]

“I like it! Fun proportions, pretty textures, some classic looks, good bags.” [Not Plain Jane]

“Must admit I don’t know much about Khaite but this feels so much more elevated and refined in comparison to what else is on display during New York Fashion Week.” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Khaite Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Alaïa

“It’s a bit early for him to be running out of ideas.” [Thefrenchy]

“This collection should’ve been so much simpler in concept and execution.” [LadyJunon]

“That was terrible. Probably his worst collection and I really can’t deal with him being at Alaïa.” [GivenchyAddict]

See all the looks from the Alaïa Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Off-White

“Ib Kamara is way too influenced by his work with Riccardo Tisci in a very dated way. It’s missing personality.” [reese06]

“I laughed all through this. If you are just going to replicate another brand/designer then at least do it well. Even when Riccardo’s shtick got tired it didn’t look cheap.” [VogueDisciple93]

“Let’s leave Off-White in the 2010s.” [Scotty]

See all the looks from the Off-White Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Carolina Herrera

“Wes Gordon has absolutely beautiful taste and it shows.” [TaylorBinque]

“The only NY show I really look forward to these days, and he didn’t disappoint. Utterly beautiful.” [liberty33r1b]

“Divine. Absolutely divine. What a heavenly collection, so regal, elegant and ladylike. A clear standout from the crowd during New York Fashion Week, and a real cut above the rest. A total sucker for polka dot here.” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Carolina Herrera Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Prabal Gurung

“What happened to Prabal? He lost it completely.” [WAVES]

“Jacquemus? Loewe? A mix of everything? Somehow, I would have never expected someone a little bit more seasoned try to replicate the hazardous cuts and details of Jacquemus. somehow, it looks worse and even more hazardous.” [Lola701]

“A parade of unspeakable horrors (polka-dot/prints/volumes/ornaments) killed the whole collection.” [jeanclaude]

See all the looks from the Prabal Gurung Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Christian Siriano

“Full of bad fabrics and weird silhouettes.” [Nimsay]

“Burn it with the eternal fires of hell. This is an abomination.” [Norden]

“Yuck. Decades later and they still want us to believe that this can pass as ‘luxury’ fashion. The ideas are tired and the production is H&M levels of cheap. I don’t care how many TV contests Siriano wins. He is not talented.” [GoldenPetals]

See all the looks from the Christian Siriano Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Brandon Maxwell

“I actually like it. No fuss ready-to-wear, no gimmicks or dramatic stuff. Reminds me of Michael Kors from the 2010s.” [Urban Stylin]

“This is not a bad collection at all. In fact, it’s solid in spite of not being spectacular. I’m really loving some of the silhouettes here, particularly the layering styling tricks that I am surely planning to copy very soon. Very pleasant to look at, overall.” [philophile]

“It’s done well – or at least better than most of what we’ve seen so far – so I can’t really fault it.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all the looks from the Brandon Maxwell Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Collina Strada

“She couldn’t afford to book a venue? It looks like a yard sale.” [rowjellies]

“Shows like this is EXACTLY why I cannot take NYFW seriously.” [Salvatore]

“Collina Strada makes a mockery of it all. She thinks she is some kind of counter-culture contrarian when it’s just hopelessly contrived and ugly. The over representation is also a total bore.” [signifier]

See all the looks from the Collina Strada Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Tory Burch

“A lot of strong looks/pieces and extremely cohesive too. Well done!” [WAVES]

“I’m thoroughly enjoying this rebrand…” [charmedp321]

“Such a nice collection and it doesn’t feel tortured or contrived. Loved the fortune cookie bags.” [Snejana Onopka]

See all the looks from the Tory Burch Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Jason Wu Collection

“Jason Wu keeps jumping from one aesthetic to another. There is no longer any consistency in his work.” [GivenchyHomme]

“More often than not, I enjoy Jason Wu’s presence during New York Fashion Week but I’m left majorly underwhelmed this season. Everything just looks so ill-fitting and a mass of fabrics. What an absolute eyesore.” [vogue28]

“Looks so randomly thrown together and unappealing.” [liberty33r1b]

See all the looks from the Jason Wu Collection Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Monse

“Very solid offering. The evening outfits are my favorite looks.” [thiago]

“Some really great stuff here. The two maxi dresses and the sequin polo w/ sequin skirt seem like must-haves. Many other nice separates like that navy suit – beautifully cut pants with a nicely shaped jacket.” [Nimsay]

“I love the sequined polo tops and dresses. They have a very Tom Ford vibe to them. I will definitely put them on my wishlist.” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Monse Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Christian Cowan

“Dreadful.” [WAVES]

“I have seen streethookers with better style than this collection…” [jeanclaude]

“It’s all reaching for fierce but falling face first into pathetic.” [YohjiAddict]

See all the looks from the Christian Cowan Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | LaQuan Smith

“Temu Tom Ford.” [disco54]

“This is awful. I don’t mind the stripper/escort aesthetic but at least make sure it’s well made. The tailored pieces look like cardboard and his attempts at draping are just abysmal.” [avonlea002]

“Always looks cheap. And bridal swim to close? Get off the catwalk, please. Terrible.” [jeremydante]

See all the looks from the LaQuan Smith Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Elena Velez

“Incinerate it all.” [WAVES]

“A random selection of obviously cobbled together clothes with no technique, no skill – made of clearance fabrics and possibly directly re-purposed curtains.” [Nimsay]

“Everything is just a mess without any artistic value. What are all of these clothes saying?” [tourbillions]

See all the looks from the Elena Velez Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Proenza Schouler

“Forever fan boys to others designers with clear vision. Great for COS or any other contemporary brand priced well but not high fashion and a catwalk show.” [PDFSD]

“Concepts, designs and styling tricks we have seen years ago. They keeps referencing the same Celine by Philo collections.” [Lola701]

“Seeing this has made realize I’m not really ready or invested enough for another fashion month. I’m already tired.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all the looks from the Proenza Schouler Spring 2025 collection.