Acrylic Overlays: Benefits, Risks, and More

Looking to boost your #ManiMondays with longer, stronger nails? You might want to consider making an appointment for acrylic overlays. The often overlooked but increasingly popular nail treatment is designed to enhance the health and appearance of natural nails, promoting growth as a result. Intrigued? Keep reading for everything there is to know about acrylic overlays, straight from nail pros. 

What Are Acrylic Overlays?

“An acrylic overlay is when you lay a liquid monomer and powdered acrylic solution over the natural nail with no extension or added length,” explains Erica De Los Santos, a New Jersey-based nail artist and owner of Nail’d It Beauty Lounge. They are a popular, protective nail technique designed to strengthen and support the natural nail.

Think of acrylic overlays as the no-makeup makeup of the nail world. “Acrylic overlays enhance your natural nail and add a clean, refined look to your hands,” says West Virginia-based nail artist and educator Alaina Schwechler. 

Benefits and Advantages

• Strengthens nails
• Enhances nail shape (but not length)
• Protects the natural nail
• Creates a clean-looking mani
• Offers long-lasting wear

Acrylic overlays harden and protect natural nails, providing support that helps them grow long and strong. Because of this, people with brittle nails, those who are hard on their nails, and those with nail-biting habits tend to love acrylic overlays, as they give their natural nails a chance to flourish unhindered by breaks and bites for weeks on end. “Acrylic overlays are extremely durable and will last a long time—typically two to five weeks—when applied and cared for properly,” says Mazz Hanna, the founder and CEO of Nailing Hollywood.

Disadvantages and Risks

Because acrylic overlays are so durable, they can be difficult to remove—even more so than gel. “The natural nail can be damaged from lifting or peeling acrylic,” Hanna says, emphasizing the importance of proper application and removal. Rest assured, though, that as with gel, if acrylic overlays are removed with patience and care, no damage will be done to the nails. 

Other disadvantages and risks associated with acrylic overlays include allergic reactions, infections, and time-sensitive maintenance routines. “Some individuals may experience allergic reactions to the chemicals, resulting in irritation or redness, and incorrect removal or repeated applications can lead to thinning and weakening of natural nails,” says celebrity nail artist Julie Kandalec.

As for infections, De Los Santos says that ill-applied acrylic overlays can lead to an accumulation of fungus under the nail. “As with any nail enhancement, without the proper care, one can risk a ‘greenie’ should any lifting occur and water or moisture gets trapped under the enhancement,” she warns. That’s why it’s important to do your due diligence: Only book an appointment with a reputable nail tech and take care of your nails once your overlays are applied.

Application Process

Before your manicurist applies the overlay, they should prep your nails just like they would for any other manicure: filing, shaping, buffing, and cleaning up the cuticles, explains Hanna. Once your nails are prepped, the manicurist will apply a dehydrator or primer to remove excess oils. Then they’ll use a brush to apply a small bead of acrylic (powder or liquid monomer) to the nail, smoothing it from cuticle to tip. Once hardened, the acrylic will be filed and shaped. From there, it’s up to you whether you want to keep a neutral look or opt for a coat of color. 

Maintenance

Acrylic overlays aren’t removed during each nail appointment; they’re filled in. But if you wait too long, it will no longer be considered a maintenance appointment. “Understanding the maintenance schedule is crucial,” De Los Santos says. “A fill is recommended every two weeks, which involves replenishing the overgrown section on the nail with new product. However, if you go beyond two weeks, it’s considered a rebalance. Some nail technicians may view this as an additional service, potentially incurring extra costs.”

Fill-ins aside, New York City-based nail artist Meisty Gawdess says the trick to maintaining acrylic overlays is to be easy on them. “Nails are jewels, not tools,” she exclaims. “The best way to maintain your acrylic overlays is to not use them to open boxes or cans or anything that could cause damage to your nails.” Tacking on to this, Hanna suggests wearing gloves while gardening and doing dishes as an added layer of protection. 

Removal

As with gel, the safest, most effective way to remove acrylic overlays is to book a removal appointment at your local salon. While it’s totally possible to remove overlays at home, most people tend to rush the process and damage their nails while doing so. But if you feel patient enough for a DIY, Schwechler says to grab a bottle of acetone. “Removing your polish with a quick file and then soaking in acetone will remove your acrylics in less than 30 minutes,” she assures us. “Please don’t ever let anyone, or yourself, rip or pry your acrylics off. This is extremely damaging to the natural nail plate and should never be done.” (More of a visual learner? Kandalec shared her go-to removal technique on Instagram.)

Compared to Other Nail Techniques

Since acrylic overlays aren’t designed to add extra length to the nail, they’re most comparable to gel and dip powder manicures. In general, acrylic overlays are more durable than gel manicures and about on par with dip powder. Each of these techniques has benefits and drawbacks, though. Acrylic overlays are unbeatably strong but gel manicures are cheaper and easier to remove. Dip powder manicures can be reapplied freshly with each appointment, reducing the risk of infection compared to overlays. 

Ultimately, it all comes down to preference. “Acrylic overlays are not for everyone, just like dip or gel,” De Los Santos says. “If you are someone who is very hard on their nails or works a job that requires them to use their hands a lot, then an acrylic overlay may be the right product for you.”

If you’re not ready for a rigid maintenance routine, Schwechler recommends starting with a structured gel manicure and working up the ladder of durability from there. She considers many factors when helping a client select a technique, “including lifestyle and [their goals] for their nails,” she reveals. “[Often], I start with structured gel manicures to grow the natural nails out safely, and then transition them to an acrylic overlay once we achieve enough length to require a harder protective product.”

The Final Takeaway

Acrylic overlays are becoming increasingly popular thanks to their protective, long-lasting, natural-looking results. They can help strengthen the nails, heal damage, and encourage growth. But they must be applied, maintained, and removed with the utmost care—otherwise, infections and nail damage are possible.