Alaïa Spring 2025 Collection Review

As first reported back in June, Pieter Mulier of Alaïa chose the city of New York to stage his Spring 2025 collection for the fashion house, on the second day of New York Fashion Week. Last night, the Belgian designer who has been at the helm of Alaïa since 2021, welcomed guests inside the iconic Guggenheim Museum – marking the first fashion show the museum has seen within its 85-year history. Rihanna made a head-turning entrance at Mulier’s anticipated showcase, decked out in a custom Alaïa crystal mesh dress. Perched on the front row elsewhere was the likes of Linda Evangelista, Greta Lee and original Azzedine Alaïa muse Naomi Campbell. Models soon make their way down the spiral runway, donning gravity-defying and architectural silhouettes. Skin-baring looks boasting strategic cutouts, with airy dresses and separates ran throughout Mulier’s seventh collection as creative director.

IMAGES | VOGUE.COM

Read below the reactions of theFashionSpot’s forum members:

“Baggy denim pants, versions of Charles James’ puffer jacket. Dude, where the f*ck is Alaïa here?” [jeanclaude]

“I really dislike Pieter Mulier’s work. It all feels so strained to illicit emotion and wonder… but there’s no there there. Very hollow and pointless.” [lookatme]

“I’ve been to Guggenheim once and the venue is definitely unforgettable. The clothes, though… Too overthought and over-designed. I usually appreciate his work for Alaïa but this time I’m really missing the master’s easiness and true sensuality. The clothes are wearing the models, not the opposite.” [thiago]

“I have a soft spot for him and I am usually ready to defend him, but this collection is bad. His last 2 shows were amazing so it’s even more disappointing to see something like this. He somehow managed to make things over-oesigned and basic in a very NYFW way. I hate the venue choice. Guggenheim is too big and sterile for a collection that already feels very cold.” [avonlea002]

“It’s a bit early for him to be running out of ideas.” [Thefrenchy]

“This collection should’ve been so much simpler in concept and execution.” [LadyJunon]

“That was terrible. Probably his worst collection and I really can’t deal with him being at Alaïa.” [GivenchyAddict]

See all the looks from the Alaïa Spring 2025 collection and join the conversation, here.