Forget Matteo Tamburini’s debut as creative director of Tod’s or Walter Chiapponi’s at Blumarine – day three of Milan Fashion Week has been about Sabato De Sarno and Sabato De Sarno only. This season, for his second womenswear offering as the new creative force at Gucci, the Italian designer is continuing to write a new chapter for the famed Italian fashion house. Staged inside a warehouse on the outskirts of Milan, De Sarno presented a collection boasting everything from tailoring and outerwear to vivid colors and lingerie-inspired ensembles to chic leather riding boots and heeled loafers (again). De Sarno’s vision is becoming more and more apparent. Monograms are subtle. Pants remain optional. Rosso Ancora is here to stay.
Read below the reactions of theFashionSpot’s forum members:
“I’m crying… it’s just so cheap! The new low.” [Kanzai]
“It’s becoming increasingly clear that Kering wasn’t looking for a designer with a strong point of view (unlike Alessandro Michele) but just someone capable of making decent clothes for a large demographic so that they can sell them at an excessive price and that everything will be put into the marketing side.” [GivenchyAddict]
“When it was suggested that his designs need to be elevated, it wasn’t meant literally on a raised runway.” [Cocteau Stone]
“What a bore. There is no point of view, just another merchandise show that could have been done by the studio team. The casting was terrible, bland looking girls with dead faces and pedestrian walks. The set and lighting made everything even more soulless. There is no desirability.” [avonlea002]
“Snoozefest.” [Delleone]
“This is….. POLITE. The absolute worst thing a luxury fashion house can be.” [GoldenPetals]
“It’s a huge improvement on the debut, a lot of beautiful and desirable product. A product that one might find similarly at a host of other brands, from Prada to Max Mara. The clothes are well cut and luxurious, and if I had an unlimited budget I’m sure I could find a host of pieces to wear, which I suppose is the idea. But: is this enough for such a mega brand?” [donyan]
“I don’t think it’s a bad collection, even if it has a massive word CORPORATE written all over it. It’s just… it doesn’t spark any desire, and I still know nothing about Sabato’s creative direction as it has been all over the place due to their marketing.” [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Gucci Fall 2024 collection and join the conversation, here.