Hair Mask vs. Deep Conditioner: How to Use Each

There are so many different products for our hair that it can be hard to keep track of how to curate a routine properly. Then add in the stress of trying to address specific concerns, such as breakage, split ends, lack of moisture, or poor scalp health. You can quickly get overwhelmed trying to figure out which haircare product is the right one for you, and understandably so.

Two products that can help tackle all of the common issues listed above are hair masks and deep conditioners. If you are confused about the difference between the two, you’re not alone. We tapped two hairstylists to help explain how each formula works and when and how they can be used in a routine. Read on so that the next time your hair is troubling you, you instinctively reach for the right fit.

The Difference

Both hair masks and deep conditioners are thick, heavy products that you can leave on your hair longer than a standard daily conditioner. However, that’s where the similarities end. “A hair mask is more reparative, giving intense moisture that gets deep into the hair shaft. Deep conditioners are a thinner formula that coats the outer layer of the hair shaft,” explains Raven Hurtado, a hairstylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago.

Furthermore, you might be surprised to know that deep conditioners are actually a type of hair mask. “A hair mask is a product that can fix various issues with different formulas and ingredient concentrations,” says Rogerio Cavalcante, founder of The Second Floor Salon in New York. “For example, you could use a deep conditioning mask that replenishes moisture in hair strands or a repairing mask that restores amino acids, and lipids lost due to chemical processes and excessive use of hot tools.” In other words, a deep conditioner is a type of hair mask that targets dryness.

When to Use Deep Conditioner

For a Moisture Boost

If your main concern is adding moisture back into your hair, you want to use a deep conditioner. “I always recommend products with omega-rich natural oils, like argan and marula oils, to restore hydration to hair,” says Cavalcante. “These oils are rich in nourishing fatty acids and help boost hair’s manageability, softness, and shine. A favorite is Seaweed Bath & Co Smooth Conditioner which includes argan oil, borage oil, and broccoli seed oil to maintain healthy moisture, and shine,” he adds.

When to Use a Hair Mask

For Deep Hydration

To really get hydration into your cuticle shaft, reach for a hair mask. “Use a hair mask for an intensely hydrating treatment whenever your hair starts to feel unmanageable and dry,” says Hurtado. Because hair masks penetrate more deeply, you shouldn’t need to do this more than once or twice a month.

When You’ve Got Breakage

Experiencing hair breakage can be frustrating, but some hair masks are designed to be a simple solution. “To deal with breakage I recommend using a mask to get into the hair shaft and provide intense moisture,” says Hurtado. Cavalcante agrees, noting that “if hair is breaking a lot it can mean it’s very weak in minerals and dehydrated. Be gentle with it, and use nourishing oils to fortify hair. I recommend applying an overnight treatment every night before going to bed.”

To Address Scalp Health

Hair masks can help soothe a dry, itchy scalp. “Use a mask once or twice a week to reap the most benefits,” says Hurtado. “It will provide the scalp and hair with nutrients and nourishment to restore hydration.” Similarly, Cavalcante agrees that consistent application can help zap problems at the source. “If you’re experiencing bothersome scalp issues, weekly treatments can help detoxify and stimulate a healthy scalp,” he explains. “Natural detoxifying ingredients like tea tree, rosemary, and peppermint [help remove] dulling debris that can slow down healthy hair and scalp function while stimulating follicles for healthy hair growth.” Cavalcante recommends using the HASK Invigorating Tea Tree & Rosemary Treatment Mask.

When You Can Use Either

We’ve established that both hair masks and deep conditioners can be a source of intense moisture for strands. That is why there are a handful of cases where you can use either option to achieve the result you are looking for. The real deciding factor will come down to personal product and application preference.

To Support Your Curl Pattern

Curls can easily stretch out, thanks to styling tools, processing, or even just the weather. To bring back their lost pattern, you can benefit from either a deep conditioner or a hair mask. “You need to moisturize curls and textured hair, but you also don’t want to weigh down your curl pattern,” notes Cavalcante. “Lightweight deep conditioners work best to hydrate hair for frizz-free curls. I like Curlsmith Weightless Air Dry Curly Hair Cream.”

“Using a deep conditioner can bring curls to life with bounce and definition. A mask can provide softness and shine,” adds Hurtado. “But be careful since masks are thicker and heavier, they can weigh finer curls down. Use a deep conditioner as regular maintenance and a mask maybe once a week or every other week.”

Repairing Split Ends

If you’re dealing with damaged ends, a deep conditioner or a hair mask can help. “For damaged hair, you need to give back what your hair is missing to reconstruct bonds and make hair “whole” again. A good option is Truss’ Miracle Mask. This brand is like Brazil’s best-kept secret. We use it at the salon for our repair treatments,” recommends Cavalcante.

Hurtado suggests using both types of products together to get the most benefit. “[Start with] a hair mask to nourish and deeply repair ends and then follow up with a conditioner for overall manageability and to detangle,” she explains.

To Increase Shine

Get the most shine possible out of your hair by using a deep conditioner and a hair mask. “Using a deep conditioner will help provide shine if used regularly,” Hurtado tells us. “A color depositing mask or gloss treatment helps increase shine and color vibrancy,” echos Cavalcante. You’ll want to be sure to not overdo it, of course. For this task, consider using a deep conditioner more often, since the results are more limited, and a hair mask only on occasion.

To Protect Your Color

Both product options can be useful for preserving your hair color. Cavalcante prefers to reach for a color-protecting mask. “I recommend my clients use Authentic Beauty Concept’s Glow Hair Mask made to maximum vibrancy and moisture,” he notes. On the other hand, Hurtado goes for a deep conditioner. “To protect color, apply a deep conditioner from the mid-shaft to the ends to protect [your color] from fading and [aid in] detangling. This will help upkeep the hair color’s vibrancy”, she adds.

The Final Takeaway

Both hair masks and deep conditioners have a place in our long-term hair care routines. A deep conditioner is a type of mask used for moisture, has a slightly thinner consistency, and doesn’t penetrate the shaft. Hair masks can have multiple purposes and have thicker textures. They aren’t interchangeable, but there are lots of situations where you can benefit from using either or both.