Hits and Misses: London Fashion Week Fall 2024

Two cities down, two to go. That’s a wrap on London Fashion Week for the Fall 2024 season. Celebrating its 40th anniversary, The British Fashion Council made certain the jam-packed celebratory 5-day event had zero shortage of show-stopping spectacles.

The fashion packed looked to Harris Reed to get the party started at Tate Britain, unveiling a dramatic collection inspired by the paper dolls he would fashion as a child. Royal College of Art graduate Sinéad O’Dwyer led the charge for body diversity and inclusivity on the runway while Edward Crutchley celebrated the 10th anniversary of his brand with a collection boasting elements from the 3rd century through to the 1970s. Bold tulle, contrasting vivid colors, ruffled fabrications and cowboy-inspired looks were on full display at Molly Goddard – all inspired by Goddard’s very own eBay watchlist.

For Fall 2024, Erdem took Maria Callas as his muse, honing in on the prolific Greek soprano’s performance in Medea. Moralıoğlu’s collection ultimately reached its crescendo with a lineup of feather appliquéd coats and dresses. In an atmospheric art space, David Koma proved he’s at the top of his game designing in black and white. Richard Quinn presented a procession of delicate and intricate evening fabrications, polishing off his collection with an assortment of fairytale wedding dresses. Subsequent to the hype of being Jean Paul Gaultier’s guest-designer, Simone Rocha staged her fall showcase inside St Bartholomew’s, London’s oldest surviving church, and drew upon the mourning of Queen Victoria for a collection full of Rocha’s signature corsetry and intricate bow detailing.

At JW Anderson, the celebrated designer paraded a collection inspired by the British sitcom: The Last of the Summer Wine. Dilara Findikoglu entitled her collection “Femme Vortex” and enlisted the expertise of movement director Pat Boguslawski (à la Maison Margiela) for models to help propel her designs to new heights. It was Daniel Lee at Burberry who rounded out the LFW festivities, complete with an army of British models roaming a tent on location within London’s Victoria Park, decked out in the designer’s statement outwear and looks revolving around a distinct shade of moss green.

Needless to say, London Fashion Week has been a one to remember. Scroll further for ALL the hits and misses of the season, according to theFashionSpot’s very own army of fashion critics:

MISS | Dilara Findikoglu

“Basically, this show is McQueen, Westwood and Galliano’s Margiela ordered on Temu. It’s such a mystery that this brand is still operating somehow, but I don’t really think it’s gonna survive next five years.” [perhydrol]

“That’s just plain ugly. You can see her entire ‘thought process’ and reference board throughout. Very cheap-looking and sloppily done.” [AnaD]

“I actually don’t mind that she copies. The problem is that it’s all over the place. How about copy one element and build around it?” [Scotty]

See all the looks from the Dilara Findikoglu Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Molly Goddard

“Its always the same old frilly boring we’ve-seen-it-before type dresses. Does anyone buy this? How does this label manage to exist?” [90sFan]

“A lot of struggle separates. That 80s duo chrome fabric is bad. I want more of the cowgirl from Molly Goddard, just the two looks here are not enough.” [Nimsay]

“MUCH preferred experimental elements in the spring collection, and hoped she’d build on those, where she played with petticoats, corsets, and trench coats.” [Not Plain Jane]

See all the looks from the Molly Goddard Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Eudon Choi

“Beautiful, layered, textural clothing with a palpable sensuality.” [Not Plain Jane]

“Rather gorgeous things in here. Something so beautifully bourgeois yet incredibly romantic about this. There’s enough disruption to the classicism to pull this away from looking stale and the styling is layered incredibly well.” [Cocteau Stone]

“He has consistently delivered these past few seasons. Beautiful collection, with so many covetable pieces.” [AnaD]

See all the looks from Eudon Choi Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Richard Quinn

“Totally irrelevant.” [liberty33r1b]

“Bridal section from a random department store showing at LFW.” [jeanclaude]

“Beyond bored of Quinn. There’s no real energy to this and stagnates the moment it is presented. So much of this fits so poorly too.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all the looks from the Richard Quinn Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Emilia Wickstead

“I’ve enjoyed Wickstead’s collections a lot but not sure how I feel about this one. There are great pieces but it also feels a little disconnected… maybe she’s still experimenting as it feels like an extension of her previous collection that was also similar.” [WAVES]

“I love Emilia, but this has massive Prada vibes. In fact, so big that I am struggling to call this being inspired too much. Lacks her own, a bit too referential.” [dontbeadrag]

“Why is she departing so much from what made her successful? Doesn’t make any sense.” [liberty33r1b]

See all the looks from the Emilia Wickstead Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | JW Anderson

“Chic and imaginative, feels like his early work. Enjoyed all of it, but especially the boob tassel dresses and ensembles that looked like mega-sized knits. Also the dark short trench jacket with the long sleeves was great.” [dontbeadrag]

“How fun and cozy this all feels. Very enjoyable collection. That leather bomber is fabulous, as are the bags and all the knitwear.” [Not Plain Jane]

“What can I say… I’m obsessed.” [prylvi]

See all the looks from the JW Anderson Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Bora Aksu

“What in the Little House on the Prairie is this bullsh*t?” [gallianostan]

“Sick of this approach, and is very half arsed too because there’s a lot of others that do this better (even if I can’t stand it).” [Cocteau Stone]

“The pastel half of the show is total saccharine and becomes unbearable, it needs a bit of darkness which is what you sense in the work of Rocha or CDG’s Tao.” [YohjiAddict]

See all the looks from the Bora Aksu Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Sinéad O’Dwyer

“Horrid.” [Not Plain Jane]

“Not far off from what Mark Fast is already doing, so really what is she doing here? Intention behind the casting is great, but it’s just awkward designs that seemingly have a wallflower tweeness that doesn’t actually show off any confidence or anything.” [Cocteau Stone]

“Not another bring your own garment show and ticking all body types.” [tourbillions]

See all the looks from the Sinéad O’Dwyer Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Erdem

“There are some pretty dresses and elegant skirt suits in this collection.” [Not Plain Jane]

“I have a soft spot for him, even his fluffy things aren’t heavy looking. I’d like to see him at Valentino.” [yslforver]

“There are some beautiful things in here. Fantastic co-ords, great outerwear and the more simple dresses are done well.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all the looks from the Erdem Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Mark Fast

“Terrible show. Odd casting, terrible, messy styling and just overall needs a really tight edit.” [reese06]

“His surname is very appropriate… Mark made the collection so Fast, that he forgot to actually design it!” [jeanclaude]

“Just a waste of fabric and clothes with absolutely nothing to say. What is the purpose of this? Why does this need a show?” [gallianostan]

See all the looks from the Mark Fast Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | David Koma

“This has been his best collection in a very long time.” [LadyJunon]

“Oh gosh this is beautiful. The combination of textures is done so beautifully.” [GoldenPetals]

“I actually enjoy this quite a lot. Love some sexy evening wear.” [thiago]

See all the looks from the David Koma Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Simone Rocha

“Oh wow! I think this is really good. More pared down, with some throwbacks to the 1950s (a bit of little Edie) but also with a more futurist feeling too.” [Not Plain Jane]

“Apparently Gaultier has spiced things up because this offering is much better than the usual. Great collection!” [thiago]

“It’s very interesting to see a more mature look from Rocha. I like this a lot.” [LadyJunon]

See all the looks from the Simone Rocha Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

“John Galliano, but Bernard Arnault is the creative director, his children are the studio team and their housemaid that was illegally imported from rural Georgia is the stylist.” [LadyJunon]

“Sweet baby Jesus. A bunch of Galliano-esque redeuxs with only a sliver of the passion.” [Nimsay]

“What fashion students will make when asked to make a Galliano-inspired collection.” [tourbillions]

See all the looks from the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Harris Reed

“Probably my least favorite ‘designer’ of all time.” [lookatme]

“This whole collection is just confusion. Random avant garde clothes put together.” [tourbillions]

“Everything is nonsense. He hopes these ‘groundbreaking’ hings will be worn at the Met Gala, right?” [Kanzai]

See all the looks from the Harris Reed Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Burberry

“One of my fav collections this season. Loved the colors, the pops of red, coats and skirts. Oh and the boots! Casting was amazing (Agyness, Karen, Lily D and Lily C!). Loved the music too.” [Alejandra Isami]

“First time his collection’s an immediate hit for me. Daniel Lee got rid of the juvenile prints and made luxurious fashion.” [tourbillions]

“A vast improvement to his previous collections, this is actually pretty solid. It’s not setting me on fire, but it’s a decent collection. Fabulous cast!” [AnaD]

See all the looks from Burberry Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Edward Crutchley

“Central Saint Martins side effects…” [jeanclaude]

“Straight trash. Some good ideas but mainly straight to the bin.” [Nimsay]

“Collections like this make it really hard to ever get excited or even interested for LFW. Should have made like the others last season and opted out of presenting due to financial hardship.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all the looks from the Edward Crutchley Fall 2024 collection.