Hits and Misses: London Fashion Week Spring 2025

Two down, two to go and that’s a wrap on London Fashion Week. Running from September 12-17, this LFW Spring 2025 season was a complete amalgamation of new and established talent. To conclude the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week, The British Fashion Council granted us a jam-packed schedule to round out the festivities.

Report: London Fashion Week Spring 2025

This London Fashion Week was a special one for Harris Reed who was on the official schedule for the very first time. The young talent (and current creative director of Nina Ricci) presented in the Tanks of the Tate Modern and sent OTT dramatic silhouettes down the catwalk and emphasized on upcycling materials. With the 2024 Queen Elizabeth II Award to his name, S.S. Daley debuted his first womenswear collection – complete with Harry Styles sitting perched front tow. Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons of Chopova Lowena returned to the LFW schedule this season, with a collection inspired by American heroines (like Calamity Jane).

After three seasons showing with Fashion East, Standing Ground spearheaded by Michael Stewart flew solo at London Fashion Week. The young Irish designer’s show boasted diaphanous drapes, molded leather coats and Stewart’s signature beaded column dresses. Always a LFW highlight, it was all in the details at Richard Quinn. Each of the 45 looks embodied Quinn’s vision of elegance via masterful shape, volume, and fabrication. Following a two-season hiatus, Nensi Dojaka returned to the London Fashion Week schedule with her signature cut-out dresses – and a Calvin Klein collaboration.

Slick suiting contrasted with floating feathered dresses and exaggerated bows at Roksanda. JW Anderson credited the girliness of his sister as inspiration for his spring collection. An array of variations of the mini dress was sent down the catwalk, staged within London’s Old Billingsgate market. The celebrated designer’s collection was filled with sculptural silhouettes, interwoven panels of fabric and exaggerated ballet skirts. Daniel Lee at Burberry rounded out the London Fashion Week festivities this season, opting to remix the brand’s heritage for the season ahead.

Here’s the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:

MISS | JW Anderson

“Loewe leftovers.” [rowjellies]

“Well he was clearly busy with other projects (such as costumes for “Queer”) than his own label, so we have a parade of mediocre, low-quality trash that he presented because he literally had to.” [Olaffo]

“God knows I enjoy his menswear at both JWA and Loewe, but I will NEVER like his womenswear. Ever. It always feels like a forced exercise for him, with close to no point of view for each collection. Scrolling through those looks I can’t help but wonder who is she meant to be. The answer is no one, because there is nobody here. It’s a bunch of fabric placed on models treated as mannequins.” [Thefrenchy]

See all the looks from the JW Anderson Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Roksanda

“This is quite wonderful. A little too indulgent in place but I love the fantastical quality that she’s so good at doing.” [GoldenPetals]

“Loved the last few looks — the blue, pink, and orange gowns.” [rowjellies]

“A standout from London Fashion Week, without a shadow of a doubt. A strong collection, from start to finish. I just knew from the opening and second look that I would’ve be disappointed… and I wasn’t.” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Roksanda Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Harris Reed

“Lots of showmanship but no real workmanship.” [Constructionist]

“It’s truly embarrassing. The delusion this person has is insane. The show is so cringe. The models aimlessly and cluelessly flapping their arms around like CoUTuRe. Calling this amateur would be putting it lightly.” [lookatme]

“They could have at least lit and retouched the photos in a way that would hide poor tailoring and sloppy finish of garments.” [avonlea002]

See all the looks from the Harris Reed Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | S.S. Daley

“I like it!” [helmutnotdead]

“I am not disliking it. Plenty of influences but he managed to remain cohesive and to offer a wardrobe with many options.” [yslforever]

“S.S. Daley is a really promising designer. Perhaps an editor or stylist of old ideas as opposed to designer but still pleasant to look at and I even own his knitwear! I’ll take his show over JW Anderson any day.” [Olaffo]

See all the looks from the S.S. Daley Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Burberry

“Daniel Lee is so checked out at this point. I give him another year or less.” [rowjellies]

“Last week the brand’s stocks were down over 70% vs. a year a go. Mostly over concerns that they cannot right the ship and this collection did absolutely nothing to comfort those fears. There was one good jacket. No great bag(s), no decent shoes, not even a good pair of sunglasses.” [VogueDisciple93]

“Failed again unfortunately. There is no voice. Nobody knows what Burberry wants to be. Sales (according to that BOF article) are down about 22% this year. That set looked like a St Martins graduation show and the feathers on the jackets followed by sequins and graphic scarves looked like a total mess.” [signifier]

See all the looks from the Burberry Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Standing Ground

“First relevant show of the season.” [helmutnotdead]

“I was greatly impressed! I will definitely be following this brand/designer now. Such modernity and chicness to evening dressing.” [VogueDisciple93]

“When a young designer from LFW does a more relevant Alaïa collection than Mullier. I love the textures he managed to create, they are so interesting. Everything is so sensual and effortless. For sure one name to watch!” [IloveDiorHomme]

See all the looks from the Standing Ground Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Nensi Dojaka

“Everything looks unfinished… something is missing in every look.” [tourbillions]

“Nensi Dojaka used to do this boudoir kinda fashion so well 3 years back. I guess the blandification of fashion got to her.” [philophile]

“I really don’t understand her success. Everything Nensi Dojaka makes looks like there isn’t enough to it. So lacking and wane.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all the looks from the Nensi Dojaka Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Aaron Esh

“Quite good. Stylish even, and that’s a word I would never use to describe London fashion. It doesn’t feel like fashion student fashion.” [Alquimista]

“Very cohesive.” [tourbillions]

“I like what he’s doing, mainly because he and Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground are one of the rare younger designers who are designing something different. It’s chic, sexy, desirable and with a bit more technical finesse to his tailoring, I could see him going very far.” [LadyJunon]

See all the looks from the Aaron Esh Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Sharon Wauchob

“So freaking pretty and delicate! That’s how I like it.” [philophile]

“Sharon Wauchob is the LFW QUEEN and I love that she keeps herself low profile. Everything about her designs is so special and intimate! I’m in awe of those white tops, the white trousers, the first black dress, the trench coat. The white jacket! I want it all!” [WAVES]

“Beautiful and feminine clothing, as per usual.” [Not Plain Jane]

See all the looks from the Sharon Wauchob Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Bora Aksu

“Very… Chanel audition. Grandmas curtain couture.” [tourbillions]

“Too twee; too granny. Needs some edge to make it more interesting.” [Not Plain Jane]

“A little less tulle wrapping and this would’ve been perfect.” [WAVES]

See all the looks from the Bora Aksu Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Natasha Zinko

“Oh. Dear. Chin straps? Hospital shoe covers? Underwear dresses?” [Not Plain Jane]

“The collection itself is very high street trendy, which means that is already behind the trends, and quite incoherent when taken as a whole.” [YohjiAddict]

See all the looks from the Natasha Zinko Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Chopova Lowena

“What exactly is this supposed to be?” [Constructionist]

“When you want to make your very own Gaultier/Westwood creation for the Friday night outing to the club and you have only old tablecloths to concoct it from…” [YohjiAddict]

“Please… put us out of our misery. This has to end.” [lookatme]

See all the looks from the Chopova Lowena Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Simone Rocha

“So sloppy.” [lookatme]

“She’s been telling the same story for far too long.” [TianCouture]

“I see a lot of Molly Goddard leftover vibes this time, especially the knits and the menswear looks. The last 3 looks… Shepherd Bush fabric yard sale?” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

See all the looks from the Simone Rocha Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Knwls

“They had a semi-moment riding off that Y2K trend, but this look is very dated now.” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

“Who is this for? Club kids in Berlin?” [rowjellies]

“A British version of LaQuan Smith, trying to do early 00s Dior by Galliano. And with some Philip Treacy-inspired hats for no reason at all.” [jeanclaude]

See all the looks from the Knwls Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Richard Quinn

“Can’t hate on it, as it’s all so well made. This is what Harris Reed thinks he is doing.” [tourbillions]

“You could never make me hate Richard Quinn. A sight for sore eyes during London Fashion Week. He’s in a league of his own on the LFW circuit. Absolutely love the sight of some Pierpaolo Piccioli x Valentino glamour, following an endless array of student-esque and grungy collections.” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Richard Quinn Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Erdem

“I can’t understand how or why this brand exists.” [lookatme]

“Erdem could have delivered a more exciting result had he played on the masculine/feminine and the ‘coming-undone’ tension a bit more. When he’s in a good form, I can see a bit of Dries’ charm in him and at his worst, he churns out looks that could be right out of Maria Grazia’s sketchbook.” [tricotineacetat]

“Huge mess.” [velvetandsilk]

See all the looks from the Erdem Spring 2025 collection.