Hits and Misses: Menswear Paris Fashion Week Fall 2024

That’s a wrap on Menswear Paris Fashion Week‘s Fall 2024 season, and the festivities have been an absolute whirlwind since Pharrell Williams kick-started the fashion frenzy with his Wild West-inspired collection for Louis Vuitton, where his posse of cowboys helped redefine the American West. The first Givenchy collection post-Matthew M. Williams saw the brand invite guests inside the historic salons of 3 Avenue George V, where Founder Hubert de Givenchy crafted his creations in the late 50s until his retirement in 1995. The showcase setting proved to be the ultimate location to unveil the collection, with the in-house design team having been inspired by Monsieur Givenchy himself when compiling the 34-look collection. A dramatic soundtrack of Russian composer Sergei Prokofiev filled Kim Jones’ Dior Men showcase, as Jones introduced his fist full line of menswear haute couture. Balmain returned to the PFW schedule for the first time since 2020, to which Olivier Rousteing collaborated with artist Prince Gyasi to compose a collection of bright colors, polka dots and pop art-esque motifs which harked back to the 80s. Following a season in Milan, Pierpaolo Piccioli brought Valentino’s menswear offering back to Paris for the Fall 2024 season, using a specific shade of blue as his starting point and to declare the tie as the pièce de résistance of the season.

Look no further for an unfiltered take on Menswear Paris Fashion Week’s Fall 2024 season. Check out the hits and misses, all in accordance with theFashionSpot’s forum members:

HIT | Dries Van Noten

“I f*cking SCREAMED. Chic, polished, superb, wearable, fashionable, sleek, sexy, daring, and I could continue for a long time. All the rest can go home!” [helmutnotdead]

“This might be the only brand thus far this menswear season where I would wear everything!” [notfatgoddess]

“Hands down the best men’s collection. Dries really is the best designer in Paris now, if not in fashion. The clothes are just sublime, such handsome and cinematic menswear.” [disco54]

See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Acne Studios

“I’m beyond lost. What happened to this brand?” [Lola701]

“I feel that Johnny Johansson thinks he’s ahead of the curve but he’s been left way behind.” [youthinasia]

“Painful to look at. Acne went from Scandinavian cool to wannabe streetwear Palm Angels this season.” [IloveDiorHomme]

See all the looks from the Acne Studios Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Wales Bonner

“I didn’t know thrift shops were allowed to show in Paris menswear schedule…” [jeanclaude]

“Confused as to what the intention is here. It’s all just a bit stylistically haphazard in order to cater to a wider audience, which leads this to feeling like an insincere output. Why is that crushed satin dress in here? The boots with Bermuda length shorts? Everything is at odds with each other so none of it really meshes together well.” [Cocteau Stone]

“Unfortunately, this collection just confirms my doubts regarding her work. It’s still very beautiful, beautifully made, approachable but still no identity.” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Wales Bonner Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Junya Watanabe

“YESSS! The Junya Watanabe that I love. No more punk sh*t.” [Kanzai]

“I willl always have a soft spot for Junya! I find this quite ambitious but still very much desirable and relatable. This is the first time in a long time that I see him doing such ambitious outerwear!” [Lola701]

“I want every single trench!” [GoldenPetals]

See all the looks from the Junya Watanabe Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Rick Owens

“He really has become a caricature of himself…” [tricotineacetat]

“To me Rick has lost the plot long time ago, now I’m watching his shows only for the amusement.” [Olaffo]

“Remember Rick Owens around 2008? When he designed sensual, easy yet bold pieces?” [IloveDiorHomme]

See all the looks from the Rick Owens Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Yohji Yamamoto

“Beautiful! I’m crying.” [Kanzai]

“ALL HAIL THE KING! The first stanza of the collection (1st nine looks) was perfect. Then what followed was pretty much on par with what we’ve been accustomed to by Yohji Yamamoto. The casting was incredible! Yamamoto is on the same level as Armani for me, pretty much untouchable.” [WAVES]

See all the looks from the Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Homme Plissé Issey Miyake

“Always enjoy Issey Miyake.” [LadyJunon]

“The silhouettes speak for themselves. this is what happens when you focus on cutting and draping instead of costume and gimmicks. Good clothes.” [gallianostan]

See all the looks from the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Louis Vuitton

“Tacky. Pharrell should’ve just stuck to music. These tired singers/rappers/whatever should really stop venturing into fashion when their careers get stale.” [notfatgoddess]

“There is something very unauthentic and costume-y about this. It feels very much like he just texted the team: ‘hey let’s do a cowboys and Indians theme’ devoid of any of the cultural references or understanding what it actually means. Not that every collection needs to be deep and nuanced and referenced well but it feels very hollow and empty.” [Yasouss]

“My jaw dropped at seeing this! What a horrible, ill fitting pile of absolute sh** clothes. I thought Virgil Abloh couldn’t design but in comparison to Pharrell he was a couture god.” [90sFan]

See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Givenchy

“The models faces says it all.” [tourbillions]

“Jesus, there is not a single drop of masculinity here. So unsexy.” [Alquimista]

“This is what happens when there’s no designer in sight. And the designer that just left was mediocre. And the stylist they hired to style the show is untalented to the max.” [90sFan]

See all the looks from the Givenchy Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Dior Men

“Imagine having all the budget in the world to offer absolutely nothing…” [Wolkfolk]

“The shorts, socks and ballet flat situation is tragic.” [LadyJunon]

“With all that drama, that insane budget and those grand gestures, you would expect a fitting collection…And of course we got the opposite. There’s one thing that I hate in menswear, and it’s seeing unrelatable, undesirable clothes only created for pure Drama purpose. Nobody looks good in Dior Men. Nobody will buy those pieces. Nobody is believing in this!” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Dior Men Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Loewe

“This isn’t for me and seems like a miss, also feels a bit like his own line, which isn’t bad, but this is Loewe.” [Yasouss]

“Love Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe but this was not it for me. From the clothes to the color palette, to the set, to the models, nothing worked for me this time.” [Ihhbl]

“This show makes me want to take another shower. The whole thing feels so seedy. I miss Jonathan Anderson’s 2015-19 era. Those were his best collections.” [LadyJunon]

See all the looks from the Loewe Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Hermès

“Chic and elegant and wearable – that’s all I need!” [Olaffo]

“Always love Veronique Nichanian’s work! Always masculine and so ‘low luxury’. I love Hermès’ menswear and this is exactly what I want for from a luxury brand…” [Kerg]

“A truly beautiful menswear collection, just as I have come to expect from Hermès. The styling is lovely, and the fabrics are just screaming luxury, which for me reads quintessential Hermès. A massive fan of the color palette too. Easily one of my highlights of PFW!” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Hermès Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Balmain

“I really much prefer his menswear than womenswear! This is so good.” [tourbillions]

“I do have a soft spot for Olivier because I know he loves what he does and you can see it through the clothes. I am happy with what I see even though he can be a bit literal. I love how he finds the right balance between the stunts and fashion itself.” [thiago]

“This is actually a great collection. I think it was somehow chic, much more subtle than usual and quite multi-layered. I saw some French surrealism but also Les Zazous mixed with eastern African influences but also Les Sapeurs from Congo in the flamboyance of the mix of colors.” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Balmain Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Valentino

“That’s one straight- to-the-outlet shade of blue. I don’t think that Hotel Particulier was the best set to show menswear and there was a lack of energy and rhythm in the show itself. The color thing needs to stop. The collection needed a dynamic print or motif, not another tired color theme.” [Lola701]

“Where I have seen those fringe panels before? Pierpaolo Piccioli copied Phoebe Philo so literally! Shein-level of design.” [jeanclaude]

“The only good thing about this show was seeing Jeremy Young on the runway.” [Thefrenchy]

See all the looks from the Valentino Menswear Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Paul Smith

“OMG very Dries, I love it! I always adore the Paul Smith brand to be fair, their recent collections have been pretty solid.” [Kanzai]

“These are the pants that I wish Dries showed…a roomier cut, but not excessively billowing and baggy. I can’t complain about this. Sure, Sir Paul’s not really a part of the fashion conversation these days, but his clothes are wearable, practical, stylish..enough, and safe (which isn’t a four-letter word). And, his stuff won’t break the bank, either. He gets my admiration… 100%.” [engenius]

See all the looks from the Paul Smith Menswear Fall 2024 collection.