That’s a wrap on MFW, with the undisputed king of Italian fashion that is Giorgio Armani rounding out the Milan Fashion Week schedule with a dreamy confection of whimsy and timeless silhouettes – sprinkled with a touch of romance. A wardrobe of winter florals, leaving us all here at theFashionSpot speechless in admiration.
Back on day one, it was Glenn Martens kick-starting the 5-day Milanese affair, with his fifth physical showcase as the creative force behind Diesel and experimented with a new and accessible show format. At Fendi, Kim Jones is wrapping up the Fendi woman for the Fall 2024 season in elegant tailoring. For a shot of color and extra warmth, Jones finished off the silhouette by adding extra layers of knitwear and cashmere. Utilitarianism done right. In an ode to metamorphosis, Fausto Puglisi ditched the signature animal prints in favor of a different kind of texture at Roberto Cavalli, opting for a marble-esque print this season. MFW staple Alberta Ferretti mixed leather and lace, fluffy winter coats with short skirts and chic tailoring with broad shoulders.
Timeless elegance reigned supreme at Ian Griffith’s Max Mara showcase, fabulous knitwear pieces in shades of grey were paraded down the runway by a stellar cast of top models including Natasha Poly and Yasmin Wijnaldum. Office attire with glimpses of the 50s were on full display at Prada, with co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons fusing together fashion with fragments of history. In a stunning tribute to a luminous nights sky, models walked the Emporio Armani finale with umbrellas as a light flurry of fake snow fell softly down on the runway – making for a truly unforgettable MFW moment.
Adrian Appiolaza made an extremely good impression on his first outing as Moschino’s creative director, having only had one whole month to work on the collection. On his second outing at the helm of Tom Ford, Peter Hawkings only further continued his vision of glamour and power. Models walked a marble runway wearing sleek tailored suits, hyper sexy dresses, big gold jewelry and killer heels. Matteo Tamburini’s debut at Tod’s saw the designer present an impeccable edited collection, true to the brand’s heritage. At Gucci, Sabato De Sarno essentially delivered part two of his Ancora vision, doubling down on the distinct shade of burgundy. Punk rock and the vamp aesthetics of the 80s were unveiled by Donatella at Versace, proving the iconic designer is wild at heart.
The Fall 2024 collection at Jil Sander featured pieces with crystal accents and an assortment of shaggy bags and shoes. Faithful to the brand’s DNA, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana presented a collection where black reigned supreme (with leopard print splashed throughout). Matthieu Blazy played with texture, shape and volume at Bottega Veneta and made the banal brilliant. Maximilian Davis’ latest for Ferragamo took inspo from the flapper girls of the 20s while it was all about pattern and play at Missoni.
How did such collections fare amongst theFashionSpot’s very own army of fashion critics, you ask? Scroll on further for the (many) hits and misses of Milan Fashion Week Fall 2024:
HIT | Missoni
“What a great way to combine colors, stripes and texture. everything worked perfectly! Loved the venue and the music too.” [prylvi]
“What a great collection! This is the energy Missoni needed! The overload of patterns and styling works perfectly! Well done!” [WAVES]
“Ooh this a fun and smart with a small side of pop art. It is refreshing to see a collection that looks like itself (exuding its energy and essence) while also being forward thinking and contemporary. I really like this. Bravo, Grazioli. Impressive.” [TerraVera]
See all the looks from the Missoni Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Giorgio Armani
“The craftsmanship is exquisite.” [lowfive1715]
“At last someone capable of designing flattering trousers. They are exquisite, while looking effortless.” [yslforever]
“Exquisite. As per usual with Giorgio Armani, the fabrics look extremely luxurious, plush and expensive. The color palette, as always too, is fabulous. There’s a flow from one look to the next, it’s all just executed to perfection. Armani’s shades of pink are always ultra-fabulous.” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Giorgio Armani Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Bottega Veneta
“I mean it’s gorgeous, sumptuous and in the moment. The woven knits are delicious and the best pieces in the collection.” [Nimsay]
“It’s such a beautiful collection, I’m impressed! I love how graphic the silhouettes are, even the sharpness of the shoulders makes sense for me here, especially in knitwear. I also feel like it’s less heavy on experimenting with fabrics, and maybe that’s why it feels less forced than Spring 2024. I love it, and this time, even the in-house styling is not problematic at all.” [perhydrol]
“Sublime! Haven’t enjoyed a collection this much in a very long time.” [Ruito]
See all the looks from the Bottega Veneta Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Tom Ford
“I love this, all that this beautiful brand needed was a bit of streamlining to take it‘s rightful place as the most aspiring mainstream luxury brand and that‘s what Peter Hawking‘s done here.” [tricotineacetat]
“Streamlined and sexy. Love!” [AnaD]
“It’s got that disco gloss to it without venturing into Eurotrash territory. It’s really done in a tasteful way and whether people want to accept it or not, this has become a classic silhouette that Tom Ford himself popularized.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Tom Ford Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Prada
“Prada used to be famous for ‘ugly chic’. Now it’s just ugly.” [Koibito]
“At this point the brand is dead to me. I have nothing but love for Miuccia, but I’m no longer interested in her work. It’s all become too obvious. Sales may be up, but at what cost?” [GivenchyHomme]
“This looks like luxe apocalypse fashion. Boring, dated, the whole tone and styling of the show seems weird. The intentionally awkward arm placement of the models. The cast looks like they were told to look miserable onstage.” [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Prada Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Gucci
“I’m crying… it’s just so cheap! The new low.” [Kanzai]
“It’s becoming increasingly clear that Kering wasn’t looking for a designer with a strong point of view (unlike Alessandro Michele) but just someone capable of making decent clothes for a large demographic so that they can sell them at an excessive price and that everything will be put into the marketing side.” [GivenchyAddict]
“When it was suggested that his designs need to be elevated, it wasn’t meant literally on a raised runway.” [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Gucci Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Jil Sander
“Horrendous.” [Alquimista]
“Are women actually buying these frumpy clothes? Even the tailored pieces are unflattering. There is no reason for them to shift away from the DNA of the house. Minimalism is thought of as easy, but it’s actually more difficult because it involves an emphasis on tailoring.” [GivenchyHomme]
“The spirit of the brand is certainly missing. It all seems a bit too tortured and away from the body in unappealing ways.” [Norden]
See all the looks from the Jil Sander Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Dolce & Gabbana
“This is a strong collection from Dolce & Gabbana solely because it is confident and extremely focused! There’s something that I will always appreciate about designers doing what they know they can do well.” [Lola701]
“Glad they found their way back to the much-needed sexy collections. No one does it better than them!” [tourbillions]
“YES, this is everything. It’s focused, direct, the mood is right and well made. They wanted to make a collection of tuxedos, jackets, coats, furs and that’s what they did. The sheer lingerie compliments them like a template of sexiness. Casting was great too!” [Alquimista]
See all the looks from the Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Bally
“Those clothes are so weird. What a strange cut, ugly accessories and the whole bit is quite tragic. A waste of resources!” [Lola701]
“Undesirable.” [jeanclaude]
“I’m kind of repulsed by that olive green top with the flattened ruffle.” [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Bally Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Roberto Cavalli
“What happened. Their previous seasons were so tight and screamed Cavalli. This feels like Prada trying to be sexy.” [Nimsay]
“A massive step back. Looks like a nondescript collection from the early 2010s. The casting is all over the place, making the clothes look even worse because there’s no attitude to it.” [Cocteau Stone]
“Ugh, I hate it. I want trashy 2000s Cavalli back!” [Scotty]
See all the looks from the Roberto Cavalli Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Ferragamo
“Love it. The perfect cast. Great colors, good footwear and I am even starting to warm up to his oversize hug bag. All Maximilan Davis’ women are strong and sultry, but still full of grace.” [VERNIQUE]
“I can see myself going to a fancy dinner in the two full knitwear looks (the beige and the green one) with just a nice little bag and it’s perfect! I must say this about Maximillian: he has a nice eye for colors! He chooses the right shades. And the burgundy and red combination is kinda fantastic!” [Lola701]
“The colors in this are just absolutely gorgeous! He’s certainly started to wise up and become more intuitive with his skill set and what he needs to work on.” [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Ferragamo Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Marni
“What the hell is this? What happened to Marni? I want to like the coats and capes, but this is awful.” [TerraVera]
“I feel sick. This makes me sad.” [Not Plain Jane]
“Utter trash, all this needs to be put in a pile and doused in gasoline and burnt.” [disco54]
See all the looks from the Marni Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Versace
“Ever since the Michael Kors takeover, Versace has become so insanely cheap looking. It’s like a completely different brand from those Donatella glory days of the early 00’s.” [lookatme]
“The styling and overall tone of the collection feels confused to me, a little goth, a little sprinkle of punk, a little Chanel… there’s a lot.” [aracic]
“This brand is completely neutered. It can still smell hormones but it doesn’t know what to do with it. All sex appeal is lost. It’s just kind of sad.” [TianCouture]
See all the looks from the Versace Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Tod’s
“Great debut! Bravo! I haven’t loved a Tod’s collection that much since Alessandra Facchinetti left. I think this is good because it’s clever. Tod’s is not a fashion brand, it’s a leather goods maison. Here, he understood the assignment. The bags and shoes were very beautiful! Those bags are perfect! The clothes were down to earth, well designed and well styled. That’s a bit how I want Hermes to look.” [Lola701]
“Wonderful collection. I love how practical and elegant (also expensive) everything looks.” [thiago]
“This is by a mile the most pleasant surprise of the season. A very strong collection with variety of offerings and delicious accessories.” [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Tod’s Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Blumarine
“Remember when Blumarine was fun?” [AnaD]
“Something about this all looks so dated. Would have passed for a collection from 2015 or 2016 but not cutting it for 2024 sweety darling.” [GERGIN]
“The result was exactly what I expected. Sad and depressing. Why they thought a designer who does quiet luxury could do Blumarine is beyond me.” [LadyJunon]
See all the looks from the Blumarine Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Emporio Armani
“Absolutely stunning. Bravo our master!” [Kanzai]
“I love seeing a master at work. The finale is stunning and I love seeing the cast look happy rowing their job. Fabulous show full of beautiful clothes!” [AnaD]
“The finale was breathtaking!” [Koibito]
See all the looks from the Emporio Armani Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Moschino
“Way better than I was expecting. I don’t know why but I LOVED the last look. Bravo Adrian!” [Alejandra Isami]
“That was a TERRIFIC collection! He really understood the spirit of Franco Moschino. It’s classic with a twist, the right dose of humor but also very serious in terms of cut and execution. He is a dressmaker. The dressmaking was kind of exceptional for Moschino. The references were there but it had his spirit. Once again there’s a coherence between the designer and the clothes.” [Lola701]
“Guys, let’s be realistic, the man had a month to put together a debut collection and I think he did a very good job. He knows the archive very well, to begin with. He gets the Moschino values more than Jeremy Scott ever did.” [bc collector]
See all the looks from the Moschino Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Sportmax
“I haven’t seen such a chaotic collection in a long time. Grazia Malagoli are so inconsistent.” [helmutnotdead]
“This is kind of hard to comprehend as a collection. Just way too many disparate ideas that have been chucked in a design blender and they just hoped for the best.” [Cocteau Stone]
“A disaster.” [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Sportmax Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Max Mara
“Luxe and chic! Making me anticipate redoing my fall/winter wardrobe Clean, straightforward design. I appreciate it.” [TerraVera]
“A quintessential Max Mara collection, and I have nothing but love for every single look. So clean, refined, elegant, sophisticated, luxurious – the list goes on and on. This whole entire collection was styled by Tonne Goodman perfectly. Goodman and Ian Griffiths are proving to be a match made in heaven!” [vogue28]
“Such a ‘simple’ show and such a great fashion moment. It was close to perfection and this casting will be hard to beat!” [Ihhbl]
See all the looks from the Max Mara Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Alberta Ferretti
“I can always count on Ferretti for beautiful clothes each season.” [LadyJunon]
“In love with those massive knits! Very good collection for separates and outerwear. Good use of color too, it’s nice to see some restraint. This may be one of the few times chartreuse doesn’t turn my stomach.” [AnaD]
“Gorgeous!” [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Alberta Ferretti Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Fendi
“Such a depressing collection, possibly the worst Fendi collection in decades? Honestly, Kim Jones should get a lifetime ban from designing womenswear ever again.” [style_expert]
“The worst knitwear of the season and so many unflattering propositions in one collection is just too much.” [perhydrol]
“Remember when Fendi used to be actually luxurious? Why would anyone spend thousands of dollars on stuff that has no glamour or uniqueness?” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Fendi Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Del Core
“Oh I think this is fabulous. Feels very directional while remaining a bit effortless.” [TianCouture]
“I was a fan of Del Core’s since day one. I’m happy to see that he’s balancing out his offering with more daywear than he used to present at the beginning. I’m all for young designers who are out there with a serious proposition, real clothes, designed, cut and sewn clothes (not just styled). And worn by real models rather than the usual bunch of weirdos.” [bc collector]
“Beautiful collection! So minimal yet so sharp! Really love the draping here, it’s like I’m seeing fabric as portrayed in Michelangelo’s paintings. Chic!” [Ruito]
See all the looks from the Del Core Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Etro
“Sumptuous fabrics, lush textures, this was heavenly!” [Ruito]
“This is lovely! The color palette works so beautifully with the textiles. The prints and textures also looks very mature and expensive with the knitwear being my favorite part.” [dancv]
“Oh this is LUSH. It’s got that Colonial-era jazz lounge kinda glamor to it. There’s something very Chinoiserie about it. I love the details, like the fringes, ruffles, and tribal jewelry.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Etro Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | No.21
“This this what I like about Dell’Acqua: he’s a real clotheshorse, he does what he does with a very earnest approach and he’s not pretentious about it.” [bc collector]
“It’s a beautiful and solid collection. The knitwear and the cocktail dresses are kind of exceptional…” [Lola701]
“Fabulous fabulous collection.” [TianCouture]
See all the looks from the No.21 Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Diesel
“Always have a soft spot for his Diesel. I see some Gaultier-esque pieces here.” [Kanzai]
“Some looks are super exquisite and more elevated than what he usually offers. Like WOW!” [IloveDiorHomme]
“I like it much more than the past seasons! It’s a hit!” [Ihhbl]
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