Hits and Misses Milan Fashion Week Spring 2025

Three down, one to go and that’s a complete wrap on the Spring 2025 season of Milan Fashion Week. Officially running from September 17-23, this season of MFW most definitely has us in a chokehold here at theFashionSpot.

Report: Milan Fashion Week Spring 2025

The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana looked to Kim Jones at Fendi to open up the Milanese fashion festivities. Ahead of Fendi’s monumental 100th anniversary in 2025, the designer looked back to the Roaring Twenties. At Marni, Francesco Risso’s showcase was soundtracked by a group of piano players. The designer presented a collection focusing on ruffles, volumes and dresses reminiscent of elaborate prom dresses, celebrating his ninth year as creative director. Alberta Ferretti displayed airy fabrications enhancing the movement of the body, helping get day one of Milan Fashion Week off to a fine start.

Day two of Milan Fashion Week began with Antonio Marras, unveiling a collection inspired by the 1950s. The lineup consisted of statement looks including XL skirts and hats made of raffia, and prints of tropical landscapes and palm trees. Ombré silky separates, vintage car prints, and neutral office-ready tailoring were served up by Luke and Lucie Meier at Jil Sander while Daniel Del Core doubled down on the sheer trend and invited supermodel Naomi Campbell to close his show. Speaking of supermodels, Fausto Puglisi paid tribute to the late Roberto Cavalli with a brigade of the designer’s favorite model muses.

Inspired by the discipline of scientists and mathematicians, the sleek and sophisticated collection of Ian Griffiths of Max Mara paid homage to Alexandrian philosopher and teacher Hypatia. For spring, Prada co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons looked to gowns in vibrant hues, futuristic eyewear, patterned knits, and revived old Prada classics for footwear. At a venue surrounded by hanging clothes, Adrian Appiolaza unveiled his sophomore womenswear collection for Moschino – where the ordinary became extraordinary.

Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini found inspiration for spring in a journey through the Mediterranean coast. Mid-afternoon on September 20 during Milan Fashion Week Spring 2025, Sabato De Sarno exhibited his third mainline womenswear offering as Gucci creative director. Perhaps the most anticipated event on the Milan Fashion Week calendar, the designer honed in on his love for the silhouettes of the 1960s and gave them a modern twist. At Versace, Donatella referenced the Spring 1997 Versus collection and reimagined the prints from the archive.

Inspired by ballerinas, cross-crossed cardigans, tights, bodysuits, or ribbon ballet shoes were on full display at Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo. The iconic Italian design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana paid homage to the equally as iconic Madonna for the Spring 2025 Dolce & Gabbana collection, complete with the iconic cone bra and models sporting blonde wigs in a nod to the queen of pop’s Blond Ambition tour. Matthieu Blazy gave power dressing a whole new, playful meaning with his latest offering for Bottega Veneta, essentially closing out Milan Fashion Week in high style.

Here’s all the Hits & Misses of Milan Fashion Week Spring 2025:

MISS | Prada

“I really despise Raf Simons with all my heart. Everything he does is so cold, emotionless, serious and pretentious. you can see he hates women and his use of colors is ghastly!” [carla56]

“WHAT THE SH#T IS THIS? I’m traumatized…” [DK92]

“A mess. And not a good kind of mess. Casting was awful.” [Isami]

See all the looks from the Prada Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Tod’s

“Quiet luxury done right.” [LadyJunon]

“Love this! Even the shower curtain gowns at the end!” [youthinasia]

“I want everything. Even the set design is cleverly done. Obviously Matteo Tamburini has less archive to play around with but certainly they want to project the craftsmanship luxury for the brand. Yes for everything.” [TaylorBinque]

See all the looks from the Tod’s Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Moschino

“I can’t believe this is only Adrian Appiolaza’s second collection. I am bored already. There is no theme here, an extremely unforgettable parade of expensive clown clothes.” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

“Can’t believe I’m saying this, but this actually makes me appreciate Jeremy Scott. This brand is only ‘good’ when it’s dumb and childish, which was Scott’s main talent. Whenever someone tries to go into a Betsy Johnson or Sonya Rykiel direction it never ends up being very good because it renders the brand unnecessary.” [GoldenPetals]

“When I see collections like this I wonder how someone could have the nerve to call themselves a fashion designer.” [GivenchyHomme]

See all the looks from the Moschino Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Max Mara

“It works! Straight to the point, efficient, well styled. On point!” [Lola701]

“One of the brands that delivers season after season. Just enough glamour, opulence, and sexiness to everything.” [tourbillions]

“I’m in love with this collection, just as much as the vast majority. Divine, absolutely divine from the opening look to that closing look on Vittoria Ceretti. From the set to the styling it’s all just so chic, effortless, and utterly immaculate. One of the standout shows from Milan Fashion Week, without a shadow of a doubt.” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Max Mara Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

“One of Lorenzo Serafini’s best collections in a long time.” [Lola701]

“Some dresses are stellar!” [disco54]

“I really like almost every single look. It looks like what Chemena Kamali did at Chloé, except done right instead of what she actually produced.” [philophile]

See all the looks from the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | MM6 Maison Margiela

“Normally I always like something from MM6, because they always keep a bit of the original Margiela spirit, but this! Especially if you watch the video. It’s like Y2K’s Baby Phat all over again. And the music didn’t help to recreate that vibe.” [philophile]

“There is something Philipp Plein or Dsquared2, in a sl*tty Y2K trash-reality TV vibe.” [yslforever]

“This looks more Diesel than Margiela. Generic garments with some light archival regurgitation. They need new ideas to make Margiela evolve.” [jeanclaude]

See all the looks from the MM6 Maison Margiela Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | No.21

“This is STUNNING!” [TianCouture]

“Finally, something good to eat! Obsessed with that brocade cocktail dress/striped scarf combo! I love this.” [IsabelMarantBoy]

“I watched this show live and the collection was so fun, joyful and delicious. It’s very 2000s Prada, but it’s done so well.” [LadyJunon]

See all the looks from the No.21 Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Fendi

“A slow-paced boring show of boring clothes with a terrible casting. Such a waste of resources. And this time, even Silvia’s accessories couldn’t save it.” [Lola701]

“This is really bad, and the bags are awful too.” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

“Boring clothes, boring set and a parade of boring girls with dead eyes. The styling was hideous, whoever put models in those ugly boots should be jailed. Kim Jones really isn’t helping himself by showing an already soulless collection in such sterile space and casting girls that bring nothing.” [avonlea002]

See all the looks from the Fendi Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Del Core

“Maybe Daniel Del Core’s most subtle collection! Very pleasing.” [Lola701]

“More Jil Sander than the current Jil Sander, and I love it.” [yslforever]

“He’s one of my favorite designers (if not my favorite at the minute) and even if this is slightly tamed for what I was expecting, it’s still really amazing! Naomi looked so stunning that I forgot how fed up I was of seeing her! Breathtaking!” [WAVES]

See all the looks from the Del Core Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Jil Sander

“10 years after and Lucie Meier and Luke Meier still don’t have a f*cking clue about Jil Sander.” [helmutnotdead]

“Yikes. It’s so stuffy and unflattering. At this point just throw the whole brand away.” [GoldenPetals]

“Everything but Jil Sander (as always). Lucie Meier and Luke Meier destroy the brand image with collections like this one. Horrible oversized jackets with huge shoulder pads falling…horrible prints and stupid ornaments.” [jeanclaude]

See all the looks from the Jil Sander Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Roberto Cavalli

“The beginning was weird and full of copies. Very limited and one note. Then, Puglisi ran wild with the prints. The random homage could’ve been better incorporated or reflected throughout the show. It’s giving tacky. We’re missing the party, the glamour, the zest of life. Where is the excitement, confidence, enthusiasm?” [TerraVera]

“The models carried the show literally. The clothes were a shadow of the high-octane glamour of Roberto Cavalli.” [disco54]

“The problem with referencing Cavalli is that people can look up the old shows, compare and be disappointed. Cavalli was a master of glamour but also of leather. There was substance.” [Alquimista]

See all the looks from the Roberto Cavalli Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Dolce & Gabbana

“This collection isn’t just Madonna coded, it’s Madonna from start to finish. An amazing tribute to her, and so appropriate that she was in the front row.” [mepps]

“It’s a very nice hommage. After all, Madonna was very instrumental in their success.” [Lola701]

“I like this collection a lot probably because it has allure and sultriness of Monica Bellucci in Malena!” [JohannesL]

See all the looks from the Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Gucci

“The show was a disaster. First look and I already knew it was a flop. The basicness of it. And those tracksuit-inspired pants oh dear. Seriously, Sabato De Sarno has zero vision for the brand. This collection was just a bunch of uninspired clothes put together with no emotion, no direction.” [Frederic01]

“So basic and generic! No POV at all. It’s many things mixed together to hide the lack of vision. Gucci needs somebody with a real vision. This could be a Zara fashion show.” [Creative]

“This was a trunk show. De Sarno showed everything under the sun so ultimately, everybody is going to find something they like. I find it decent verging on boring. A non-event.” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Gucci Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Versace

“I’m so tired of Donatella at this point. Everything she’s done in the last decade has either been a sh*tty archive rehash or a even sh*ttier attempt at being ‘Sexy Prada’.” [LadyJunon]

“What a lovely Missoni collection.” [Magic Spells]

“What in the identity crisis was that? It looked like a bad Versus collection that has been rotting in the warehouse since late 90’s. The draping numbers towards the end were offensive. Donatella should retire.” [avonlea002]

See all the looks from the Versace Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Boss

“Ouch. What a snoozefest.” [90sfan]

“Yawn. Why is spring heavy and dark this season? The energy of Milan is exhausted and autopilot.” [TerraVera]

“I’m sorry, I fully stopped taking this seriously after seeing that one TikTok dude who’s famous for pulling a weird face come out in look #12. What the actual.” [Mr-Dale]

See all the looks from the Boss Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Antonio Marras

“Gorgeous. Beautiful clothing, wonderful prints and color combinations.” [Nimsay]

“This stands out in a sea of minimalist Phoebe Philo and Prada copies. Nice to see high-fashion clothes actually made for adults.” [tourbillions]

“The look with the straw hat and straw skirt combo made me gasp. Love it!” [philophile]

See all the looks from the Antonio Marras Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Marni

“Probably Francesco Risso’s best collection ever and possibly his closest to the spirit of Marni.” [Lola701]

“This is gorgeous. I feel like THIS is how you do luxury in 2024. It’s both timeless and fresh. I love that comic book-like quality it’s got. It fits so well at Marni.” [GoldenPetals]

“I really loved this collection! It was much more pared down compared to his previous offering for the house and I think that’s a good thing.” [Ruito]

See all the looks from the Marni Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Bottega Veneta

“A hodgepodge of ideas as per but this time it was even more disjointed. Still, no cohesion to be found in Matthieu Blazy’s collections. I found it boring. Still playing with the same motifs that he’s done to death.” [mteb123]

“I am very allergic to his BV. Everything is too heavy, cumbersome, rigid and strict. There is no ease, no sensuality.” [IloveDiorHomme]

“Very gimmicky. I think this is a collection of gimmicks with an excessive amount of fabrics. I think it’s time re-size things.” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Bottega Veneta Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Ferrari

“They forgot to put the engine into Rocco Iannone’s Ferrari…” [jeanclaude]

“Ferrari need to hire someone very relevant in the fashion conversation and relaunch this project. If they want any real shot at being a serious contender in fashion…” [tourbillions]

“For me, Ferrari as a fashion brand is not working.” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Ferrari Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Sportmax

“This is so chic and clean. Some fabulous cutting here.” [Nomar]

“Sportmax has had many very good collections. This one being one more.” [WAVES]

“When did Sportmax get this… decent? It’s quite beautiful.” [GoldenPetals]

See all the looks from the Sportmax Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | The Attico

“Can’t stand it. And why new designers think it’s cool and underground to mix a bomber jacket with night dress? It’s so passe and not cool, sorry.” [Creative]

“For a brand called The Attico, this looks like it has been stored in a basement for a very long time…” [jeanclaude]

“I will not remember much of this within the next 24 hours, unfortunately.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all the looks from The Attico Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Bally

“Yikes, the tailoring is abysmal.” [avonlea002]

“What is this? Bally des Garçons? Comme des Bally? Hideous proportions and volumes, awful prints! What was the inspiration here… Quasimodo?? The disconnection with the image of the brand (the shoes) is abysmal.” [jeanclaude]

“The proportions and tailoring of those leather coats are killing me. They are so frumpy and unflattering.” [GivenchyHomme]

See all the looks from the Bally Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Alberta Ferretti

“To the point and classic Alberta.” [Cocteau Stone]

“I like how Alberta knows her brand and her clientele, and still manages to contribute a little something here and there to the fashion discourse, like the pink dress.” [ghostwriter10549]

“It’s all just so beautiful and so quintessential Alberta Ferretti, and I’m quite fond of the splashes of vivid bold color throughout the neutral collection.” [vogue28]

See all the looks from the Alberta Ferretti Spring 2025 collection.

HIT | Diesel

“Diesel continues to be a standout each Milan Fashion Week season for how they are approaching show production and it’s what makes fashion exciting.” [jeremydante]

“The longer shapes with the fringe are a nice experiment.” [Cocteau Stone]

“I find it fantastic! It’s probably my favorite collection Glenn Martens did for Diesel. While Diesel is totally not my aesthetic, I think the collection was strong. It was well executed. Martens pushed everything to the max, it was tacky but with inventive ideas. It’s really fantastic!” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Diesel Spring 2025 collection.

MISS | Ferragamo

“Sadly I don’t see any future here.” [helmutnotdead]

“I see Lemaire, Bottega and Dior by MGC but no Ferragamo. And I really don’t know who Maximilian Davis is creatively speaking. The POV is so weak that it feels non-existent.” [GivenchyAddict]

“This collection doesn’t really bring anything new to the table. I can’t see why a buyer would choose this when similar options are already out there. Honestly, your money would be better spent at Bottega Veneta or Loewe, where you’re getting more bang for the buck.” [GivenchyHomme]

See all the looks from the Ferragamo Spring 2025 collection.