Hits and Misses: Paris Fashion Week Fall 2024

Twenty six days, four fashion capitals, one almighty season – and that’s a wrap on Paris Fashion Week!

At the start of the PFW festivities, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode looked toward Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior to kick things into high gear, who zeroed in on the maison’s history, in particular the legacy of Marc Bohan (and the launch of the Miss Dior line in 1967). Also staging their showcase on day one was Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello, who stripped down his Saint Laurent woman to the bare essentials, dressing his femme fatales in sheer pencil skirts, blouses and statement killer heels. Models at Courrèges navigated the Carreau du Temple as a fabric floor rose and feel to the sounds of heavy breathing, working Nicolas Di Felice’s sexy collection of geometric cuts. Later on during day three, Dries Van Noten showed a collection that was both eclectic and wearable while trench coats and sculptural silhouettes reigned supreme at Olivier Rousteing‘s Balmain presentation.

Rick Owens’ Fall 2024 collection was inspired by his upbringing and love of opera – using recycled materials to create shaggy coats, spacesuits and his signature voluminous silhouettes. Chemena Kamali was soon making her highly-anticipated debut as Chloé creative director, strongly influenced by the 70s Karl Lagerfeld era of the brand for a collection boasting natural femininity, sensuality, power, liberation, and declaring the return of boho-chic. While the industry awaits a new Givenchy creative director to be named, the design studio took the reins once again this season. For Rabanne, Julien Dossena outlined an eclectic wardrobe of pony hair outerwear and faux-cheetah shearlings, layered over knitwear, handkerchief skirts and blouses. Over on Place Vendôme, Daniel Roseberry presented his prêt-à-porter collection for Schiaparelli, featuring embellished dresses, ties made of braided hair and all-star model lineup.

Jonathan Anderson, who has a distinctive talent for transforming to ordinary into the extraordinary opened up Friday’s slot, with his latest Loewe collection inspired by the work of American landscape artist Albert York. Guram Gvasalia unveiled a supersized collection of dramatic streetwear at Vetements while Victoria Beckham attempted to re-examine and transform the silhouette at the core of her brand. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermès took a cue from the Parisian weather and started a literal rainfall inside, as models walked the slick runway in an array of chocolate, burgundy and sun-kissed sand colors. Anger management meet avant-garde at Comme des Garçons and it was soon time for us to bare witness to Seán McGirr‘s (highly-criticized) debut at Alexander McQueen. The Irish designer invited us inside a vast industrial space on the outskirts of Paris, who had drew upon McQueen’s early collections to bestow upon us body-engulfing knitwear and razor-sharp tailoring.

Demna set the Balenciaga runway inside a room completely surrounded by ginormous screens on all sides. The Georgian designer took dust bags, backpacks, nylon gym bags and reimagined them into tops, skirts and dresses and a finale dress completely constructed entirely out of repurposed lingerie. Mid-afternoon on day seven, Pierpaolo Piccioli decided to reduce his palette exclusively to black while Casey Cadwallader presented a Mugler collection full of drama, energy and unapologetic sexiness from models like Natasha Poly, Irina Shayk and Eva Herzigova.

Kicking off the final day of Paris Fashion Week, as per usual, was Chanel. Rich with Parisian chic influences and full of the fabled French fashion house’s signature codes like tweed and the iconic flap handbag, Virginie Viard‘s collection was a love letter to the seaside resort of Deauville. Miuccia Prada’s cast of women including Kristin Scott Thomas and Ángela Molina at Miu Miu sported Miuccia’s wardrobe staples for the modern-day girl about town. Closing out the PFW festivities in sensational style was Nicolas Ghesquière, with his dazzlingly futuristic 10th anniversary showcase for Louis Vuitton at the Cour Carrée du Louvre.

Needless to say, the Fall 2024 season of Paris Fashion Week lived up to the hype. Scroll further for all the hits and misses of PFW, all in accordance with theFashionSpot’s loyal army of unfiltered fashion critics:

HIT | Valentino

“It’s an exquisite, elegant and luxurious collection. I think that’s what Maison Valentino has always been about so for me this presentation was definitely an achievement. There’s nothing new but we can see an interesting play with shapes, lengths and fabrics. all the lace looked sumptuous! Also, I absolutely love all-black outfits and looks so this was personally, a treat.” [WAVES]

“J’adore! Beeeeaaautiful garments, great casting and everything looked expensive!” [Ihhbl]

“Those black patent 80’s pump! Heavenly! I didn’t expect much from him but it was such a nice surprise. A very beautiful collection! It was insanely glamorous, diverse and grown up. That’s what I’m looking for!
I really love the wardrobe approach and there are some exquisite pieces. Bravo PPP!” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Valentino Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Alexander McQueen

“What a very bland, generic collection. Nothing stands out, it’s all so painfully forgettable. Even at their worst, Sarah and Lee had exquisite tailoring to back them up. This doesn’t look exquisite. And of course, not much McQueen to be seen here. Any attempts at interpreting McQueen silhouettes fail to impress me. I really wanted to like this, but McGirr’s first attempt was a massive non-event. The show isn’t over yet and I can’t for the life of me remember a single good look I’ve seen in the past ten minutes.” [aracic]

“I was not prepared for how psychotic this made me feel. I’m gonna be sick.” [sussieinmcswanny]

“Diluted Alexander McQueen for Gen Z’s. I feel nothing. God help us all.” [FelipeV]

See all the looks from the Alexander McQueen Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Chloé

“Looooove it! It has the Chloé energy from the early 2000! Very well made, the three last dresses are sooo beautiful. Easy, uncomplicated, unpretentious, cool, and the colors are nice – we needed that! Bravo Chemena! Chloé is BACK!” [Creative]

“Amazing debut ! Chloé is back. Last time it was interesting was when Natasha took the helm. Minus the bags, I enjoyed everything! Well Done!” [GivenchyAddict]

“So gentle and romantic. After Hearst’s overly serious tenure, I’m so grateful for the return of flou and soft colors. Very strong debut and a potential redemption arc for Chloé!” [LadyJunon]

See all the looks from the Chloé Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Hermès

“A beautiful well-built collection. These are all coherent looks a woman can just wear off the runway. Hermès value is its plug-and-play sophistication. The Hermès customer wants to put no work into looking like they shop in Paris and only buy the best.” [Nimsay]

“It’s all just so consistently flawless, sleek, streamlined, immaculate, wearable, expensive-looking and extremely well made that I can never bring myself to dislike a Hermès collection – and this season is certainly no different. Gorgeous color palette, fabrics and textures.” [vogue28]

“It’s all about conservative quality with this house for me. The fabrics look truly exquisite and the construction is immaculate.” [GoldenPetals]

See all the looks from the Hermès Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Balenciaga

“The oversized trend sort of annoys me more than Y2K. Those big shoulders really need to go. When the show started I thought it was solid but then it got progressively worse… what a nightmare! If Demna has to stay, then he has to do formal/evening wear only.” [thiago]

“I can’t with this brand. It’s beyond old-fashioned and passé. The worst. I have the biggest prejudices against it.” [Creative]

“Please, stop it with the clown shoes!” [Machinegumm]

See all the looks from the Balenciaga Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Mugler

“More clothes for tramps and streetwalkers.” [gallianostan]

“Every collection by Casey Cadwallader has “Yas queen skinny legend Versace boots the house down slay queen hungry mama and oop daddy work Charli xcx snatch my wig” written all over it. It’s as if TikTok designed it.” [avonlea002]

“If ‘Lowest Common Denominator’ was a brand.” [GoldenPetals]

See all the looks from the Mugler Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Comme des Garçons

“Very nice. So her, yet finally feels slightly different. Sexier than usual.” [dontbeadrag]

“Strangely romantic.” [Machinegumm]

I always end up buying at least 3 dresses. This season i want and need all of them.” [90sFan]

See all the looks from the Comme des Garçons Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Schiaparelli

“Daniel Roseberry made the collection feel luxurious and effortless at the same time. I like it.” [couturefan]

“It’s quite a great collection! I’m actually surprised by how much I love this! He has finally injected some lightness and his clothes finally allows movement!” [Lola701]

“I’m impressed! So chic and effortless. I feel like his prêt-à-porter feels much more aligned to this idea of Parisian elegance. Also love how the hats bring a sense of lightness and fun.” [thiago]

See all the looks from the Schiaparelli Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Ann Demeulemeester

“Feels more like fan art of an Ann Demeulemeester collection than an actual Ann Demeulemeester collection.” [Machinegumm]

“Ludovic’s debut collection was much better. This feels directionless and tired, show wasn’t necessary.” [avonlea002]

“Oh boy. A no from me. It’s giving nothing.” [90sFan]

See all the looks from the Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Isabel Marant

“I swear I’ve been watching the same show for the past 5+ years. If I was a woman I’d be buying new Chloé…” [plentyofhorns]

“She clearly needs a reinvention, the clothes is not exciting, the brand image is getting stale. Maybe a different stylist/ art director to help to spice thing up.” [THD96]

“If you feel like buying the same clothes over and over and over and over again, Isabel Marant is a great place to start!” [jeanclaude]

See all the looks from the Isabel Marant Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Christian Dior

“How far Dior has fallen. Totally forgettable collection, not a single memorable look and a mediocre cast. It all blends into one big blur.” [signifier]

“Maria Grazia Chiuri REFUSES to have good taste.” [Salvatore]

“This collection is such a nasty surprise after the really nice Pre-Fall one! Of course the pieces are well-made, but everything feels empty and cold, despite the warm palette. Some of the silhouettes are just too simple or too literal. And don’t get me started on the MISS DIOR lettering, which, of course, had to be repeated on too many looks…” [perhydrol]

See all the looks from the Christian Dior Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Givenchy

“This brand is in such a bad state right now it’s actually sad to witness.” [gallianostan]

“Above all, this just lacks taste.” [Kennnnn]

“I wanna rip those bow tie knot things off! Drab collection.” [TerraVera]

See all the looks from the Givenchy Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Loewe

“Fashion, glorious fashion!” [Ruito]

“A pretty damn good show from Jonathan Anderson, less gimmicks and flaws than the last 5 collections.” [yslforever]

“The color palette and the prints are delicious! The tailoring impeccable and it all brings joy to winter!” [Ihhbl]

See all the looks from the Loewe Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Yohji Yamamoto

“Truly stunning. Seriously can’t stop looking at this collection. This is how you do real punk, kids, unlike any Hedi Slimane or Marc Jacobs take on it. I feel it like a contemporary, more sculptural Vivienne Westwood.” [philophile]

“Yohji is still THE master cutter. And the plaid looks are just so beautiful!” [notfatgoddess]

“And that is how you leave the rest of Paris in the dust!” [gallianostan]

See all the looks from the Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Vetements

“You can really sense the desperation in this one.” [youthinasia]

“This is just atrocious and a complete eyesore, who is even buying this sh!t anymore? Swimming in fabric and having no neck is not a look.” [disco54]

“So tired, so passe. Everything looks so dated at this point.” [tourbillions]

See all the looks from the Vetements Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Saint Laurent

“This is so beautiful I want to SCREAM!” [prylvi]

“The show is stunning! Great presentation and the venue is truly impressive (my architect friends and I are blown away).” [thiago]

“SUBLIME. I want to be a Saint Laurent woman NOW!” [matheus_s]

See all the looks from the Saint Laurent Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Junya Watanabe

“Impressive and so structural, so many great ideas!” [dontbeadrag]

“Stunning! It looks like a technical nightmare, very couture! I love it!” [Lola701]

” Absolute favorite Fall 2024 collection so far. From ANY city. This is how architectural beauty looks like. Best thing I’ve seen in years. This sh*t is iconic. This is like the equivalent of wearing a Zaha Hadid building.” [philophile]

See all the looks from the Junya Watanabe Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood

“Watching this I thought it was the worst I’ve seen these past few weeks.” [tourbillions]

“I’m ashamed to have spent precious time watching even a moment of this sh!t show.” [KoV]

“No words.” [matheus_s]

See all the looks from the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Victoria Beckham

“Completely faceless. She’s a poor woman’s Philo.” [GoldenPetals]

“Annoying design gimmicks added to otherwise bland separates. No one needs a blazer the color of putrid egg nog with a dislodged lapel and an upturned hem. It doesn’t make sense.” [Kennnnn]

“All of her collections are just so… there. The wallflower of shows.” [Machinegumm]

See all the looks from the Victoria Beckham Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Nina Ricci

“Irrelevant and amateur.” [GivenchyHomme]

“I’m sorry but mixture of Chanel knock-off and Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent with a sprinkle of Vauthier is not going to help to bring Nina Ricci back into the fashion conversation. The fabrics choice just screams Project Runway to me.” [THD96]

“What a mess.” [WAVES]

See all the looks from the Nina Ricci Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Carven

“Elegant and chic but with a twist.” [WAVES]

“The attitude of the collection feels very relaxed. Great individual pieces combined with sublime styling from Suzanne Koller. It’s just a chef kiss. I like the direction Louis Trotter is going for Carven.” [THD96]

“A lot of the shapes reference 1950s couture, done in a contemporary way.” [Kennnnn]

See all the looks from the Carven Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Issey Miyake

“Wonderful! This look is the epitome of elegance. I see Fashion with a capital F!” [thiago]

“It’s quite fabulous! Everything works! Even teal which isn’t the most forgiving color is working here. Those prints are fabulous too.” [Lola701]

“A masterclass of volume, draping, layering, texture, and color. Bravo! The final four looks are stunning. The flow is a unique sense of pure chic.” [TerraVera]

See all the looks from the Issey Miyake Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Rick Owens

“Meh, it feels like another collection designed for social media stunts.” [thiago]

“How depressing it must have been for people to get up early on a Thursday morning to go to this show. I only wish they were lucky enough to have gone to Chloé later that day.” [Kennnnn]

“Boring. Some of the knit dresses are fine, but it’s all so boring. Dare I say, reserved. It’s like he’s tempered or meditative, so this is all we’re gonna get. Cold, stale crumbs.” [TerraVera]

See all the looks from the Rick Owens Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Undercover

“Incredible, didn’t disappoint me at all.” [Kanzai]

“SO, SOOO BEAUTIFUL.” [bc collector]

“Very effortless and relaxed, which is a nice surprise.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all the looks from the Junya Watanabe Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Rabanne

“Julien Dossena, you are the best! So stunning. Hands down my favorite show in Paris.” [Kanzai]

“I love how consistent he is. Another great collection, rich in textures and colors. I’d love to touch everything!” [thiago]

“Fabulous collection! I love how he is pushing the needle in terms of taste but it still feels familiar. It’s just enough. Marie-Amelie Sauvé must have fun styling it because she delivered! Great shoes and fantastic bags!” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Rabanne Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Balmain

“My favorite show Olivier Rousteing has done in a while. I loved the fruit prints and aesthetic for the most part (not really as jewelry), it felt more warm and motherly to me rather than matronly and out of touch. Quite an endearing collection.” [Nader]

“Good cast! I love when designers use actual women as models instead of 15-year-olds.” [plentyofhorns]

“I don’t mind this at all. he does best when he’s honest and right here he is unabashedly frank and playing to his strengths.” [TerraVera]

See all the looks from the Balmain Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Dries Van Noten

“A beautiful collection giving a feeling of purity. Nothing was excessive. No one works colors like Dries does.” [IloveDiorHomme]

“He is so unique it’s remarkable. His playfulness with pastels on the first part of the collection is impressive, as it is always his work with colors, then moving forward to earthier, darker tones and to finalize pops of bright pink and lilac! Stunning!” [WAVES]

“He. Always. Delivers.” [AnaD]

See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Off-White

“Overstimulating and ugly.” [AnaD]

“I don’t feel like this is connecting with anyone. A waste of resources. Ib Kamara is probably a talented stylist but not a designer. It’s totally disconnected from the hip-hop culture and looks like a styling exercise.” [Lola701]

“This is baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad.” [90sFan]

See all the looks from the Off-White Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Courrèges

“Ooh, I quite enjoyed this. It’s very sleek and sexy and confident, which hasn’t really been a part of this season’s conversation anywhere.” [Mr-Dale]

“Despite the unusual pocket placement, the collection is still very strong. The sleek designs, strong cuts, and perfect styling by Marie Chaix really enhance the collection. The outerwear are the strongest and my favorite looks.” [THD96]

“The soundtrack slapped and the casting slayed as always.” [LadyJunon]

See all the looks from the Courrèges Fall 2024 collection.

MISS | Chanel

“The hats and boots only made it worse.” [Mrs.T]

“Virginie Viard’s Chanel is so limited. This is giving more Loewe pre-Jonathan Anderson than Chanel. The clothes are not beautiful nor flattering.” [tourbillions]

“Vile. One of Viard’s worst collections indeed (not that the rest were good by any mean). I’m shocked bosses at Chanel are OK with her shows. This brand has gone from the top of the top to the most absolute irrelevance. I am sorry for Virginie, because she’s lovely, but she has no talent to be a creative director.” [Creative]

See all the looks from the Chanel Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Louis Vuitton

“The set is everything.” [matheus_s]

“This is fabulous! I can always count on Nicolas to do the job and deliver. Maybe not the best collection of the season but these clothes have fashion energy and I can always appreciate that because it’s lacking so much in with other fashion houses.” [ghostwriter10549]

“It was such a great show! Full of references! The furry gloves he did at Balenciaga, the references to his own Vuitton collections! 10 years ago on the morning, we were excited for that new challenge for him and now 10 years later, at night we were celebrating his achievement. Fashion with a capital F! He is still the best ever for me! Stunning show, outstanding.” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Miu Miu

“Raf, you stay away from Miu Miu. This collection is simply amazing.” [Gazillion]

“I LOVED EVERYTHING ABOUT IT! Need to get these kitten heels I’m obsessed.” [prylvi]

“Funny how this feels more Prada than Prada. Great collection, great styling, one of my favorites this season.” [donyan]

See all the looks from the Miu Miu Fall 2024 collection.

HIT | Lutz Huelle

“His best collection in years. The moody setting really does wonders to the presentation of his work.” [LadyJunon]

“So beautiful, one of the best collections in Paris.” [Kanzai]

“I love Lutz, I’m always rooting for him and it’s so great that now he has the support of AZFactory/Richemont! This collection feels more elevated and it’s really great. His strongest definitely!” [Lola701]

See all the looks from the Lutz Huelle Fall 2024 collection.