How and When to DIY

Despite knowing that something is not the best idea, some habits prove hard to break. Case in point: Popping pimples. All the skincare and acne treatments in the world may not work fast enough to clear your skin, and unfortunately, you can’t run to the dermatologist for every pimple that pops up. So, that’s when we decide to take matters into our own hands. If our dermatologists use extraction tools on our skin, so can we, right?

“The purpose of using an extraction tool is to remove a pimple without causing any collateral damage, such as bleeding, discoloration, or scarring,” says board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD. And while you may think that removing a blemish with a medical tool is better than your fingers, using an extraction tool at home can do more harm than good (hello, pockmarks and scars). To get our facts on extraction straight, we turned to Camp and fellow dermatologist Carl Thornfeldt, MD, and top esthetician Heather Wilson.

Keep scrolling to read their thoughts on using acne extraction tools at home.

What Are Acne Extraction Tools?

Acne extraction tools (aka comedone extractors) treat comedonal acne, a common and non-inflammatory type of acne, by removing blemishes. They typically consist of a small metal rod with a hook or loop at the end that is used to extract whiteheads (closed comedones) and blackheads via gentle squeezing, tweezing, or piercing.

Risks and Challenges

Risks for using an extraction tool at home include pain, redness, infection, discoloration, and scarring, says Camp. Although you can buy acne extraction tools anywhere, that doesn’t necessarily mean that you should. “The use of an extraction tool by a trained, licensed professional is generally safe. However, the ability for anyone to purchase an extraction tool has increased in recent years. Consumers can purchase extraction tools of all kinds at many mass retailers, but that does not mean at-home use of them is recommended,” says Wilson.

For instance, improper use of an extraction tool can damage the skin (think: scarring, bruising, and capillary damage), she explains. Not only that, but it may also drive bacteria deeper into the skin, causing a breakout to become even worse. Thornfeldt notes, “Misuse of the device itself, using a device with a poorly designed structure, and deep rupturing of the lesion, which induces a severe inflammatory response,” as three reasons why damage typically occurs from using extraction tools at home. The thing is, even if you think you can remove a whitehead’s contents without a hitch, it’s easier said than done. “A major difficulty is the proper alignment of the device to the skin contour and shape,” comments Thornfeldt. He recommends having extractions performed in-office by your dermatologist, cosmetic physician, or esthetician for best results.

What to Do Instead

“Using well-established forms of treatment should be the first approach to treating acne,” says Camp, who adds that acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and adapalene are available in over-the-counter products. If you can’t get to your skincare professional immediately, don’t reach for an extraction tool just yet. Instead, try these preventive measures and alternative treatments below.

Exfoliate regularly

Exfoliation should be—if it’s not already—a regular part of your skincare routine. That’s because there are many benefits to exfoliating, including clearing current blackheads and preventing future ones from forming, notes Wilson. “Look for alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, or enzymes such as papaya or rice enzymes,” she advises and recommends Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Cleanser Daily Foaming Wash for its AHAs and enzymes that help boost radiance and refine pores. These types of exfoliators are gentler than scrubs (more on that below).

Apply a warm compress

Camp says that using a warm compress may soften the contents of a pimple sufficiently so that it comes to a head, comes out, or heals naturally. Be careful that the water is not scalding, which can further irritate and dry out your skin.

Skip the scrubs

Chemical exfoliators tend to be more gentle on the skin than physical exfoliators, but if you’re set on using the latter, can we at least suggest that it not be a scrub? “Harsh scrubs will slough off surface skin cells, but they cannot work deep into the pores to remove blackheads,” explains Wilson. And if you have acne-prone skin, scrubs can even spread the bacteria, which will only serve to exacerbate acne, she adds. The solution? Use an exfoliating cloth, like Tatcha’s Kinu Pure Silk Polishing Face Cloth, or brush instead.

Don’t pick

No matter how tempting—not to mention satisfying—picking at and popping a pimple may be, don’t do it. According to Wilson, “popping acne lesions has more potential to spread bacteria when forcefully erupted.” Instead, she suggests applying topical treatments with salicylic acid or charcoal meant to reduce inflammation and kill bacteria. She recommends Bolden Overnight Spot Treatment, which contains sulfur and is known to aid in the elimination of acne.

Use a spot treatment

“Spot treatments with benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or sulfur can also help dry up a pimple without needing an extraction,” says Camp. “Acne patches are marketed for the treatment of an acute acne flare or blemish, but the ingredients in acne patches, namely hydrocolloid, create a healing environment that can facilitate the repair of damaged skin.” We like the super-fast-acting Mario Badescu Drying Lotion, and if you’re on the go, try acne patches like Peace Out Salicylic Acid Acne Healing Dots.

Use a steamer

If there ever were an ideal time to extract acne away, it would be right after showering. That’s because post-shower, you’re skin is at its softest. This can also be achieved using an alternative method: “For gentle at-home blackhead removal, you can invest in a small facial steamer to help soften the skin,” proposes Wilson. Then, if you happen to see blackheads coming to the skin’s surface, wrap your fingers in tissue and wiggle out any excess congestion.

The Final Takeaway

While our experts agree that extraction tools should be left to the professionals, if you must use one at home (or already have) be sure to wash your hands and tools before you begin. “Use a facial steamer or warm wet washcloth on the skin to soften the contents of your pores and melt oils. Use gentle pressure on the treatment site followed by a healing ointment afterwards if there is any open, bleeding, or raw skin,” recommends Camp. You should also make an appointment with your dermatologist if you did more harm than good to your skin and are concerned about infection or if your acne does not respond to over-the-counter treatments, as an in-office extraction may be necessary.