How To Choose Between Them

When it comes to removing body hair, you’ve got a lot of choices. You can wax it, shave it, tweeze it, or sugar it into oblivion, or you can opt for a more permanent fix at the hands of a licensed professional. But even then, you’ve got another decision to make: Should you go with lights or lasers? 

Two of the most common permanent hair removal treatments are IPL and laser hair removal. Both offer similar stubble-reducing results but use entirely different mechanisms to get the job done. “The key difference between laser and IPL is the type of light used,” says Dr. Mina Amin, a board-certified dermatologist based in California. “IPL is a pulsed light source, and laser is a monochromatic coherent light source.” Each method targets the melanin in the hair follicle to deliver long-lasting results, but IPL does it with a blinking light while laser hair removal does it with a single beam. 

IPL is most commonly found in at-home hair removal devices while laser hair removal can generally only be done at the hands of a professional. Both have the potential to give you the smooth-skinned finish you’re after. Still unsure of which one to choose? Below, experts share the details of both treatments and how to find the best pick for you. 

What Is IPL?

IPL stands for “intense pulsed light,” which happens to be a pretty good description of how these treatments work. “[IPL technology] uses quick and powerful flashes of light,” says Kristin Gunn, a celebrity esthetician. She notes that the IPL devices are often referred to as “lasers,” but that’s not quite right. “IPL uses a high-powered handpiece to deliver an intense, broad-spectrum pulse of light to the treatment area,” she explains.

Certain wavelengths of light are absorbed by the color molecules in the skin—known as chromophores—and IPL specifically targets melanin chromophores to destroy the pigment in the cells. These cells absorb the light and convert it to heat, which damages the hair follicles to prevent regrowth. 

“IPL devices emit multiple wavelengths of high-intensity light, ranging from 500 to 1,300 nm,” Dr. Y. Claire Chang, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in Manhattan, previously told Byrdie. “Because of the range of wavelengths, IPL has multiple possible targets, including the dermal matrix, blood vessels, pigment, and hair follicles.” 

In addition to being used for hair removal, these devices offer other skin-care benefits, too—most of the time, dermatologists use them to treat discoloration (not hair removal). “IPL breaks down melanin and hemoglobin to address pigment and redness on the skin, and can also stimulate collagen production,” says Dr. Amin. 

Who It’s For

One of the major problems with IPL (and part of the reason why pros have moved away from using it) is that it doesn’t really work on darker skin tones. “The more melanin you have in your skin, the harder it is for the device to differentiate good pigment from unwanted pigment,” says Gunn. “Using IPL on darker skin types can cause burns and hypopigmentation.” The best candidates for IPL, then, are those who have a stark contrast between their skin and hair. If you’ve got a fair complexion and dark body hair, this type of treatment should deliver solid results. 

Treatment Protocol

IPL technology is most commonly found in at-home devices, which puts the treatment protocol in your hands. For best results, follow the directions that come with whatever device you’ve decided to invest in. If you do happen to be getting IPL for hair removal from a professional, Gunn notes that you typically need a series of at least six treatments spaced four to six weeks apart. “This is due to each individual hair being in different growth phases,” she explains. “Each time you go you will catch more hair in the proper phase and remove about 20%.” 

Things to Consider

IPL is generally more affordable than laser hair removal, but the results can vary. Additionally, it’s not a great option for those with darker skin tones and works best for those who have a stark contrast between their hair color and skin tone. “There is more updated technology now, but the old-school IPL is still great on many levels,” says Gunn. 

As far as the treatment itself, expect it to be a little bit uncomfortable. ”It is a hot sensation and burning and there is some downtime of redness and swelling the day of and sometimes the following day as well,” says Dr. Amin. This discomfort will be less intense with at-home treatments, as they generally aren’t as strong as what you would get in the office. You’ll also want to keep in mind that IPL can make skin more sun sensitive, so “it’s important to avoid sun exposure and use sun protection before and after IPL treatments,” says Dr. Brendan Camp, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City.

Cost

The average price for an at-home device is between $120-$500. However, in-office treatments can range from $600-$1,200 for one visit.  

What Is Laser Hair Removal? 

While IPL uses a whole bunch of pulses of light to remove hair, laser hair removal gets the job done with a single beam. “In-office laser hair removal treatments are typically done with different lasers that employ a single wavelength to target pigment within the hair follicle,” says Dr. Camp. 

Just like with IPL, the light energy is converted into heat, which destroys the hair follicles. Hair will only stop growing, though, if this process catches it in its growth phase—follicles that are in the dormant or catagen phases won’t be affected by the laser. With that in mind, you’ll need multiple treatment sessions spaced out over time to see real results.

Who It’s For

“The ideal candidates for laser hair removal are patients with light skin and dark hair. In patients with blonde hair, the laser is relatively ineffective because there is minimal pigment present in the hair bulb for it to target, and it relies on this target for its mechanism of action,” Rachel Maiman, MD, Chief Medical Officer at Milan Laser Hair Removal, previously told Byrdie.

While lasers still need some contrast between skin and hair to work their best (“Because the laser targets pigment, laser hair removal is not as effective on treating light-colored or grey hair,” says Dr. Camp), they tend to deliver better results on darker complexions than IPL devices. 

Treatment Protocol

“Laser hair removal treatments are 4-6 weeks apart and typically [a total of] six sessions should do the trick,” says Gunn. This will leave you hairless, but keep in mind that you may see some regrowth over time. “You may need a touch-up on occasion, as random hairs here and there can happen,” adds Gunn. 

Things to Consider

Not all lasers are created equally—the better the technology is, the better your results will be. “Energy levels of the device used, frequency of treatments and the color of your hair being removed will all contribute to the outcome,” says Gunn. 

Laser hair removal should be done by a trained professional—this is not an area where you want to cut costs by going to a discount provider. The treatment itself is uncomfortable and is more painful depending on the area you’re choosing to treat (your bikini line, for example, will hurt more than your legs). It feels a bit like having a rubber band snapped on your skin, and leaves behind some tingling and redness that goes away quickly with a little aloe vera.

Ideally, you’ll plan your laser treatments for a time when your skin is at its natural tone. It won’t work as well when you’re tan. Avoid UV exposure before and after your treatment, and talk to your provider about any skincare products or medications that may be affected by the laser. 

Cost

The cost of laser hair removal can vary depending on the area being treated, but expect to pay $100 to $150 per session for small areas, $200 to $500 for medium-sized areas, and $400 to $800 for large areas.

IPL vs Laser Hair Removal: How to Choose

Overall, lasers are the better choice for permanent hair removal. “Professional laser treatments are going to be much stronger, more effective, and longer lasting as the treatment is more focused,” says Gunn. “These lasers also typically can treat darker skin tones.” 

However, if cost is a consideration, you can still get good results from an at-home IPL device. If you’ve got a deeper complexion, though, the pros strongly suggest steering clear of at-home IPL devices, because the treatment can do some major skin damage in untrained hands. “A laser is always going to be a better option with faster, more consistent, and less painful results that can be done on all skin types,” says Gunn. 

The Final Takeaway

While there is a time and place for both professional laser hair removal and IPL devices, the experts agree that one reigns supreme. The quality, results, and inclusiveness across skin tones make lasers the best option for anyone looking to permanently zap away hair. Should you fit the criteria for IPL at-home devices, proceed with caution and be sure to follow the instructions that come with the product. Otherwise, research a trustworthy expert who can help you make a laser hair removal plan for the best results.