Microneedling vs. Microdermabrasion: What to Know

If it seems like a new, of-the-moment skin-rejuvenating treatment is available almost every week, it’s because there is. While many come and go, among the handful that have maintained steady popularity over the last several years are microneedling and microdermabrasion. These treatments enhance the skin and leave it smoother, glowy, and more even.

But don’t let the “micro-” prefix fool you: Microdermabrasion and microneedling yield big results—albeit as two very different treatments. To learn more, we consulted board-certified dermatologists Brendan Camp, MD, and Hadley King, MD. Read on for what they shared.

What Is Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion is a form of physical exfoliation that can be performed professionally and at home, usually as a scrub (although do-it-yourself microdermabrasion machines are also an option). As King explains, a traditional microdermabrasion treatment performed by a professional uses a special applicator with an abrasive surface to gently sand away the outermost layers of skin. “Another microdermabrasion technique sprays fine particles of aluminum oxide or sodium bicarbonate with a vacuum or suction for the same exfoliating result,” she adds.

Microdermabrasion works to exfoliate away the top layer of the epidermis “to treat skin that appears dull or textured,” says Camp. It can also help unclog the pores. Removing dead skin cells also brightens and smooths the skin while helping to stimulate collagen production, revealing healthier, more radiant skin.

While microdermabrasion suits most skin types, King does not recommend it for sensitive skin. “With physical exfoliation, if you use a product with large, rough particles with sharp edges, you can create micro-tears in the skin, leading to irritation, inflammation, and possibly even infection, especially when applying too much pressure to the skin,” she says.

What Is Microneedling?

While microdermabrasion focuses more on the skin’s surface, microneedling works at a deeper level. “It uses small needles that create a small, or micro, superficial injury in the skin to trigger its reparative cascade to stimulate new collagen production,” Camp explains. He adds that microneedling helps improve the skin’s overall quality for anti-aging purposes, treats residual scarring from acne, and even targets enlarged pores.

You can do microneedling at your dermatologist’s office or at home. Radiofrequency (RF) microneedling, available via in-office treatments like Matrix Pro, Morpheus8, Secret RF, and Genius, are the most powerful iterations of microneedling procedures; then comes standard microneedling treatments (without RF), and finally, DIY microneedling rollers. “At-home rollers have shorter needles (about 0.25mm), so they do not penetrate the skin as deep as the professional version,” King says. “Although needles in a roller do not reach deep enough into the skin to stimulate new collagen, they can help improve product penetration.”

Microdermabrasion vs. Microneedling 

Camp says the most significant difference between the two is how deep within the skin they reach to stimulate change. “Microneedling affects the skin at a much deeper level, namely the dermal tissue, whereas microdermabrasion works more on the superficial layers of skin, like the top layer of the epidermis,” he explains.

While microneedling improves skin quality by stimulating collagen production (which helps tighten skin and improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and acne scars), microdermabrasion enhances skin radiance and texture. It can also improve the appearance of mild sunspots and blemishes. People often say that their makeup looks better after microdermabrasion. However, both treatments improve the skin’s quality and texture to look healthier, more even, and more youthful.

Preparation

As with any elective cosmetic treatment, there is some pre-procedure prep work that your dermatologist will likely recommend you do, no matter if you choose microneedling or microdermabrasion. For example, if you are prone to cold sores and have a history of them, taking an antiviral medication before a microneedling session is a good idea. “Some providers recommend discontinuing retinoids or retinols a few days before microneedling and microdermabrasion,” Camp adds.

To make microneedling and microdermabrasion more comfortable, topical numbing cream can be applied to clean, dry skin. “A serum or PRP may also be applied to the skin before or after microneedling to enhance the penetration of the treatment,” King adds.

Aftercare

After both skin treatments, the skin will be more sensitive to the sun, so protecting it with good sunscreen and avoiding the sun at all costs is essential. The skin will also be slightly red and may feel tight and dry for about 24 hours after microdermabrasion. For more aggressive in-office microneedling, these symptoms can last up to four days.

With each treatment, following the proper skincare routine as the skin heals is imperative. Post-microdermabrasion, King says to focus on supporting the skin barrier with emollients and avoid potentially irritating ingredients or additional exfoliation until the skin has healed. Camp also recommends using only a gentle cleanser and moisturizer after each treatment and waiting a few days before returning to your usual skincare routine.

Also, if you use any microneedling or microdermabrasion device at home, washing them after each use is critical. Otherwise, says King, makeup, dead skin cells, and sebum can accumulate within the tool, harboring bacteria and yeast.

To fully reap the benefits of microneedling and microdermabrasion, derms recommend a series of treatments (since the results are cumulative).

Cost

Microdermabrasion is less expensive than microneedling, running about $150 to $400 per session; traditional microneedling can cost around $750 per appointment. “RF microneedling, a newer technology that offers potentially more robust results than standard microneedling, is the most expensive option of the bunch,” Camp adds—its price tag is, on average, $1,000 per treatment. Each treatment’s cost will vary by geographic location and provider.

How to Decide Which Is Best for You

Both microneedling and microdermabrasion can improve the skin and its overall appearance, so you’ll need to consider your skin type, concerns, and goals to decide which one is right for you. “Microdermabrasion is more for exfoliation, whereas microneedling increases product absorption and initiates a wound-healing cascade that may increase collagen synthesis,” King explains. “But, if you already incorporate exfoliation as a regular part of your skincare routine, then microdermabrasion may not add a lot of benefit, so I would recommend microneedling instead.”

If uneven skin texture, dullness, blackheads, fine lines, and mild signs of sun damage are areas of concern, microdermabrasion will be more helpful. It’s also suitable for all skin types and offers no major downtime. If at-home microdermabrasion sounds more your speed, King recommends looking for a product with very fine particles and always using very gentle pressure.

If your skin concerns are a bit more moderate and include fine lines and wrinkles, large pores, acne scars, uneven skin tone and texture, some skin laxity, and even stretch marks, microneedling (both the standard version and RF-powered iterations) are likely the best choice. Microneedling is generally safe for most skin types, particularly those who want to focus on creating collagen within the skin. However, King does not recommend it for sensitive or inflamed skin, active acne breakouts, or anyone managing cystic acne since microneedling can exacerbate these conditions. It is also not recommended if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.

The Final Takeaway

Microneedling and microdermabrasion are popular skin-rejuvenating treatments, but for all the good the two offer, there’s plenty to know about their differences. Microdermabrasion focuses on superficial exfoliation via either crystals or an abrasive tip, while microneedling stamps the skin with tiny needles to incite a wound-healing response and collagen production to improve the skin. Some people benefit from just one of these treatments, while others find that their skin responds to both (done at separate times) to help them reach their skin goals. Ultimately, the best treatment for you is dictated by your skin type, most pressing skin concerns, budget, and what your dermatologist feels will benefit your skin most.