Water Peels Are the Korean Facial Trend You Need to Try

When you think of facial peels, what comes to mind? If we had to guess, we’d say you’re likely conjuring up an image of beet-red, peeling reptilian skin that can’t see the light of day. But in the world of Korean beauty, peels aren’t as scary as they sound. In fact, one peel called the water peel, also known as the aqua peel facial, is one of the most sought-after skin treatments in Korea. Those living stateside have caught on to the treatment, which can be performed by both licensed dermatologists and trained estheticians. Promising exfoliated, deeply nourished, and smoother-looking skin, find out everything you need to know about the popular aqua peel facial, according to experts.

What Is an Aqua Peel Facial?

Aqua peel facials are a non-invasive skincare treatment that uses a specialized machine to chemically and mechanically exfoliate the skin as well as infuse it with nourishing solutions. According to Dr. Teo, it has been the most prominent hydrodermabrasion technology used in Korean dermatology offices over the last decade. “The aqua peel was primarily marketed as an exfoliating tool that was gentler and more suited for sensitive skin compared to traditional exfoliating systems like chemical peels,” she says. It’s also commonly offered as an add-on treatment for pre- and post-laser patients, as it can offer soothing relief.

The Benefits

Aqua peel facials come with multiple benefits, including:

• The treatment deep cleans pores through mild exfoliation.
• It is suitable for all skin types (sensitive included).
• Plumps and smooths skin for 1-2 days post-treatment.
• Has a brightening effect on dark spots.
• Zero downtime.

The Cost

According to Hong, the appropriate price for an aqua peel facial in Korea is up to $75. “Some Korean skincare clinics offer very cheap aqua peel facials priced between 9,000 won and 30,000 won ($6-$20) but I do not recommend these places because in many cases, the solutions used are one-size-fits-all and aren’t customized to each client.” If you’re stateside, an aqua peel facial will likely run you $100-$200. The good news is that you don’t need multiple treatments to see a difference—the complexion-boosting, pore-cleansing effects are apparent immediately and after just one treatment, says Hong.

How to Prepare for the Treatment

Though aqua peel facials are gentler than traditional chemical peels, Hong still recommends avoiding face scrubs and skincare products with active ingredients—including retinol, AHAs, BHAs, and vitamin C—for one week pre-treatment. When in doubt, consult with a qualified practitioner who can discuss proper precautions with you.

What to Expect During a Treatment

Aqua peel facials last about 45 minutes and consist of three main steps: extraction, exfoliation, and infusion. Depending on the provider, aqua peel facials can also be combined with other treatments like LED therapy, microcurrent, and sheet masks. What makes it such an attractive treatment is that it involves zero downtime and is relatively painless.

1. Extraction: After cleansing the skin of makeup and sunscreen, most providers will start the treatment off using a spatula-style ultrasonic cleanser to prep the skin. The device is placed at a 45-degree angle and uses ultrasonic vibrations to help unclog pores and extract blackheads and whiteheads. Typical areas that get the most love are the t-zone area (forehead, nose, and chin), as these are more prone to congestion. Aside from extracting debris and excess sebum, this is also the first step in ensuring a clearer canvas for the skin to absorb the hydrating ingredients in the steps to come.
2. Exfoliation: The main bulk of an aqua peel facial is exfoliation. Unlike other popular treatments that use similar “vacuum” technology, aqua peel facials are more suitable for sensitive skin because they rely on hydrodermabrasion. This is achieved via a uniquely designed handpiece with a vortex-like tip. During an aqua peel facial, both physical and chemical modes of exfoliation are used. For one, your provider will use chemical exfoliants like salicylic, lactic, and glycolic acid to dissolve dead skin cells and remove excess sebum in the skin. This, along with the gliding hand movements of the suction handpiece, allows for deeper—yet gentle—resurfacing.
3. Infusion of Serums: After exfoliating your skin, your provider will switch the machine to the infusion setting. This houses a glycerin and vitamin B complex to replenish moisture and infuse the skin with antioxidants, says esthetician Kay Hong of Beauty Day Korea, a beauty clinic based in Seoul. As Dr. Liu adds, infusing the skin with nutrients is part of what makes the aqua peel facial so effective at delivering fresh, glowing skin.
4. Customizations: After extracting, exfoliating, and infusing the skin with serums, the aqua peel facial is complete. Depending on where you get your treatment done, however, your practitioner will likely follow up with some customizations like a sheet mask to soothe any post-treatment redness, Gua Sha to improve circulation, LED therapy to stimulate collagen production, or a relaxing massage.

The Results

Because the treatment involves two forms of exfoliation—physical and chemical—it effectively sloughs away all traces of dead skin cells. This immediately reveals brighter, more radiant skin that lasts up to 2-3 days. You’ll also notice less visible pores, a more even skin tone, and overall improved skin texture. As Dr. Liu adds, infusing the skin with moisturizing ingredients helps to restore the skin’s moisture barrier, making it feel softer and more supple. “The treatment also enhances the skin’s ability to absorb any hydrating serums you choose to apply afterward.” The same goes for makeup—for many people, makeup glides on much smoother post-treatment, making it a good option to keep in your back pocket before big events.

Potential Side Effects

“​​Because the aqua peel device is used to suck out dead skin cells and sebum, your skin may temporarily become red after the treatment, but this will improve over time,” says Hong, who adds that rarely, temporary mild acne may also appear after the procedure due to stimulation of the sebaceous glands.

In any case, Dr. Teo stresses the importance of finding a qualified practitioner to perform your treatment. This expert should be trained to watch out for signs of irritation, know the optimal angle of holding the device, understand how to navigate the facial contours, and ensure comfort throughout the process, she adds.

Aftercare

For one week following the treatment, Hong recommends avoiding skincare products with active ingredients, saunas, strenuous exercise, and sun exposure. She also recommends applying a moisturizing cream along with sunscreen daily.

The Final Takeaway

If you’re looking for a zero downtime, non-invasive way to improve your skin’s texture, tone, and radiance, an aqua peel facial may be worth considering. Overall, the treatment is for those concerned with frequent breakouts, blackheads, and rough skin texture. And if you just want a highly tolerable pore-cleansing treatment that won’t irritate your skin, an aqua peel is perfect for you too.